How to fix a leak in a toilet on the drain into the sewer: how and with what to seal the joint, methods

Many users sometimes have to think about how to fix a leak in the toilet on the drain into the sewer. As a rule, the problem is not noticed immediately, especially if the toilet has been renovated and all the pipes are hidden. Typically, a bad smell and puddles of water after flushing become a signal of a leak.

The issue must be resolved as quickly as possible, before the problem worsens and a real flood occurs. Then you will have to restore not only your toilet, but also make repairs to your neighbors downstairs. However, not everyone can immediately fix a leak because they lack experience or skills. Let's look at the causes and ways to solve the problem.

Possible causes of a toilet leaking from below - we carry out diagnostics

Even if the water is only leaking a little, the problem cannot be ignored. Such a defect means not only constant dampness in the bathroom, but also the danger of a more serious leak, which can happen at any moment. And this can result not only in a large water bill, but also in repairs for the neighbors below.

Let's understand the problem:

1. To get started, arm yourself with a flashlight and a paper towel.
2. Carefully inspect the toilet bowl, base, socket, hose, and connections. If you can't see it with your eyes, apply a paper towel; wet spots will become an indicator.

What an inspection can show:

1. Damage to the toilet itself (in its faience part).
2. Joints, connection points (pipe with toilet, flexible hose or tank with inlet fittings, bowl and tank, etc.).

Once you understand where the water is leaking, you need to understand whether you can solve the problem yourself.

Why is snot as thin as water?

Mucus in the nose is formed by water, salt, proteins and enzymes; it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract from the penetration of pathogenic microflora and moisturize the nasal mucosa. A large amount of liquid mucus indicates that a lot of viruses have accumulated in the nasal cavity and an infection is developing, accompanied by swelling of the mucous membrane. The body reacts to the pathological process by producing mucus of a liquid consistency, with the help of which pathogenic microorganisms are removed.

• weaknesses;
• feeling unwell;
• headaches;
• dizziness.

Considering the cause of the development of pathology, the following forms of the disease are distinguished:

• infectious;
• non-infectious;
• allergic;
• non-allergic.

If you do not promptly treat the snot that flows like a stream in an adult, the acute form quickly transforms into a chronic stage, the danger of which lies in complications - sinusitis, sinusitis, respiratory tract pathologies and even meningitis.

Warning: the photo may be unpleasant to view.

Crack in faience

So, water is dripping from cracks in the toilet itself. They arise for various reasons. It happens that the product is not carefully transported to the buyer. If the toilet received a “wound” on a bumpy road and it is small, then initially, when it has not yet been used, it will not be noticeable. The crack will appear as it gets dirty and will become more noticeable. If the damage is in a place that is hidden from view, then you may not be aware of its existence, but over time it may begin to leak water.

Another reason for damage to earthenware can be a sudden change in temperature. When boiling water is poured into the toilet, when it comes into contact with hot steam (careless treatment with a steam generator, etc.).

The first thought is that we need to run for a new toilet. But you can try to revive the old one. In any case, it will be cheaper than a new earthenware product. The only inconvenience is that you need to figure out how your family will live without a bathroom for a day.

What you need to have:

• Sandpaper of different grits.
• Epoxy resin based adhesive (two-component).
• Hair dryer.

To restore the integrity of a damaged sewer section, you need to:

1. Turn off the water supply to the tank, remove moisture from the surface near the crack and dry it thoroughly with a hairdryer.
2. Thoroughly clean the damaged area with medium-grit sandpaper. We want this area to become rough and create a small depression.
3. Dilute the glue, strictly following the instructions.
4. Apply a thin layer of adhesive mixture to the damage. When the entire crack is filled with glue, leave it to dry for a day.
5. After 24 hours, clean the treated area with fine sandpaper and remove any unevenness.

Now you can use the toilet, it should not leak if that was the reason.

Leak due to overflow - what to do

If the drain tank is leaking due to constant overflow, you need to carefully examine it and find the cause of the problem using the following method:

• First you need to remove the tank cap;
• The float is slightly raised and held;
• If the tank does not flow when the float is raised, then the cause of the problem lies in the float lever - it simply does not shut off the water;
• To get rid of problems with the float mechanism, you need to bend the lever and fix it in a position that allows you to completely block the outlet;
• If the toilet continues to leak, you need to inspect the valve mechanism - its pin could be damaged, corroded or displaced;
• If problems are found with the valve pin, you need to replace it with large-section copper wire;
• Sometimes situations occur when the cause of the leak is damage to the valve outlet, and the solution to this problem is to completely replace the valve mechanism;
• If all previous operations did not help, then you need to check the seal by pressing it against the valve mechanism;
• A leaking gasket must be adjusted or, if it cannot be adjusted in any way, replaced.

The tightness of joints and places where parts are connected is broken

Checking the tightness of the joints is something that can be done when looking for the cause of the problem. There are several such connection points.

The junction of the bowl and the tank

• The steel fasteners are rusty. To correct the current problem and eliminate a similar one in the future, you need to cut them off with a hacksaw and replace them with other fasteners without galvanization.
• The fastening of the connecting screws is loose, which often occurs if you lean your back on the tank. Accordingly, the problem is solved by tightening the fasteners, for which a special key is used.
• Improper installation of the gasket or the natural process of wear of the rubber material is another reason why a leak occurred. The connection must be unscrewed, the position and integrity of the gasket checked, and if necessary, replaced with a new one.

The junction of the inlet fittings and the tank

The water supply can be bottom or side:

• The first thing to do if the inlet fitting is attached using the bottom connection technology is to tighten the nut with a suitable size wrench. Perhaps the only reason is that due to the gasket not fitting tightly enough, puddles appear near the toilet. If this does not help, then you need to check the gasket at the junction of the tank and the fittings for integrity. To do this, unscrew the nut, remove the flexible hose and inspect the gasket. Its clearly worn and worn condition is the reason for installing a new element.
• With a side connection, the reason may be slightly different, namely incorrect operation of the shut-off valve. As a result of such a failure, the water level inside the tank exceeds the maximum mark, and water leaks onto the floor. The problem is solved by adjusting the position of the float; it must be lowered a little lower by tightening a special screw. At the same time, you can check the condition of the gasket and diaphragm valve. The first is replaced as it wears out, and if the second is faulty, all shut-off valves are replaced.

Joint between inlet fittings and hose

1. To fix the problem, you need to turn off the water and use a wrench (or adjustable) to unscrew the joint.
2. After disconnecting the flexible hose, check the condition of the gasket. If necessary, replace it with a new one.
3. Check the flexible hose itself. Perhaps there are cracks on it, which lead to water leakage. In this case, you will have to replace the hose itself.
4. After reassembling everything, tighten the nut thoroughly, but do not overdo it, otherwise you will damage the threads.

Flush tank device

Most often, the cause of water leaking from the toilet lies on the surface, and fixing it does not require special skills. Before you take up the tool, it is important to understand the structure of the toilet and identify its most problematic parts.

The main component of the toilet is a bowl made of metal, acrylic or sanitary ceramics. It is a non-wearing part and may be damaged if subjected to heavy impact loads. In most cases, the cause of water leakage is a malfunction of the tank or a leak in the joint between the bowl and the sewer.

Main parts of the cistern:

• frame,
• rubber bulb (drain valve),
• float that regulates the water level,
• water supply valve,
• traction system,
• overflow protection.

If you turn on the drain (turn the lever or press the button), the bulb will rise and water will flow into the hole. As the tank empties, the float will lower, the water supply valve will open and the tank will begin filling. Having risen, the float will activate the valve, which will shut off the flow.

Interesting! The design of the toilet has not undergone significant changes over the past decades, only the materials used and design have changed. Having understood the principle of operation of a simple tank, it is easy to repair a device of any level of complexity from standard “compact” systems to designer installations.

Leaking corrugations on the toilet

• There is no rubber sealing ring - it is either worn out and does not perform its functions, or they simply forgot to install it when installing the bowl. Once you add this part, the toilet will function normally.
• A crack in the corrugation itself. Only replacing the part with a new one will help here.
• No transition cuff. This reason only applies to toilets connected to cast iron sewer pipes. Without an adapter, it will not be possible to achieve a high degree of sealing, which is a prerequisite for installing a toilet. To do everything efficiently, place the adapter cuff on silicone sealant and coat all joints with it.

Ways to solve the problem

The most reliable option is considered to be a complete replacement of the defective unit. However, such an approach is not always possible or necessary. Before you seal the gap between the toilet and the sewer, you need to determine the extent of the problem and decide whether minor repairs can be done. Sometimes attempts to dismantle a particular unit lead to even more severe damage. It is often better to strengthen the defective area so as not to completely disassemble all elements of the system. Let's look at some methods for eliminating leaks:

The junction of the pipe and the bowl outlet

If the joint in this place is leaky, then it is worth re-treating it with sealant. But first you will have to turn off the water, dismantle the toilet, remove the old sealant from the joint with a screwdriver or chisel, put everything back in place and apply fresh silicone sealant all around.

Important! After this, you cannot use the toilet for a day; you need to let the sealant completely harden.

Check that the toilet is securely fastened to the floor, tighten and, if necessary, secure the fasteners.

Important! If the base of the toilet is cracked, it will have to be replaced. The repair will not have the desired effect.

What if cast iron

Repairing a sewer riser in an apartment is possible if a small leak, a minor fistula, a small crack is detected, or a cast iron fitting (coupling, adapter) has burst. Such not very dangerous damage will withstand temporary measures.

Quick repair methods:

There is no need to thin the cement. Take a dry solution. Water is oozing from the fistula. The cement will get wet little by little. A layer was applied - the solution got wet - another layer. Little by little the fistula will heal. Cement adheres well to cast iron - it will hold on.

2. You can’t hide a more serious leak behind cement. The large hole must be closed with a clamp. Purchase a clamp that matches the diameter of the riser. Cut a rubber strip underneath it. The width of one should be equal to the width of the clamp, maybe a couple of millimeters more. The length is the diameter of the riser.

We wrap the ribbon around the pipe to check if it fits. Open the clamp. We put it on the riser. We tighten it a little. We insert a rubber gasket under it. We try to get her to close the fistula. And tighten the clamp all the way. Another repair option is cold welding. But the clamp is more reliable.

Trouble may arise in the sewer system. Especially if the network is already old and has been in service for decades. The most common of them are leaks of varying intensity. They can occur at joints, through defects. Urgent repair of the sewer riser is needed. If the damage is serious, then replace it. Let's talk about renovation.

Defects are different. Consequently, repair measures are also different. Sometimes a simple putty will be enough, and sometimes you will have to stitch it up. In any case, repairs are a temporary measure. The pipe will have to be replaced soon.

Some tips for the future

• Periodically check the areas behind the toilet and joints for moisture. Sometimes it can ooze out completely unnoticed. There will be no puddles, but brown streaks will be visible. These are the “first signs” and they cannot be ignored, since a large leak can occur at any inopportune moment.
• Every few years, check the condition of the gaskets and replace them with new ones if they are already outdated. Don't wait until the parts fail completely.
• Try not to lean on the tank while sitting on the toilet; press the flush buttons carefully.
• Special water filters will help prevent premature wear of fittings. This way, foreign impurities will not get into the tank, which will undermine the metal and clog the space between the moving elements.
• When replacing gaskets and other parts, do not skimp and buy from reliable manufacturers. This is a guarantee of long service life for your plumbing fixtures.

Having understood such an unpleasant phenomenon, we can draw the following conclusion:

• Minor defects such as wear of individual elements, which can be reached without complex disassembly of the entire system, can be repaired independently. Anyone with “hands in the right place” can do this.
• If there are serious cracks in the thicket or at its base and you definitely need to reinstall the plumbing with new ones, then decide what to do based on your experience. If it is not there, it is still better to entrust this work to a professional.

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Seal damage

Another reason why water runs in the toilet is a faulty or worn seal. Typically such parts are made of rubber or polymers. These materials wear out the fastest, so this element is considered the least reliable part of the drain mechanism.

The O-ring is usually located right at the water exit point. In addition to its direct sealing function, this ring also works as a filter that filters out various impurities contained in the water. Of course, the smallest particles in this case act as an abrasive, gradually wearing out the material of the part. As a result, you have to figure out how to fix the leak in the toilet tank.

A contaminated part can simply be cleaned using the following algorithm:

• First you need to remove the drain mechanism;
• Then the cleaning solution is prepared;
• The valve elements are cleaned with a solution;
• The parts are installed in their places.

If the part was damaged, which was discovered during inspection or during the cleaning process, then the easiest way would be to replace it. Replacement should be made regardless of the nature of the damage to the seal, be it deformation, ruptures or cracks. And, of course, you cannot return the damaged part to its place - after this, water leaks from the tank into the toilet with the same intensity in the very near future.