Sewage equipment provides water supply and removal of used liquid from the water supply system. If the drainage device fails, the siphon in the bathroom is replaced. Recommendations from the experts will help you carry out repairs without calling a plumbing team.
What can the system do?
The drain-overflow system is used in all designs, as it plays an important role. If the owner forgets to turn off the tap, he will not flood the neighbors, because excess water will flow out through the upper hole. But this is far from the only purpose of such a design.
- Thanks to the water seal that is formed in the siphon, unpleasant sewer odors do not penetrate into the room. The water barrier prevents even strong aromas from escaping. However, not all models are able to guarantee 100% protection, so it is important to understand the technical features of the product.
- Some options use a special mechanism to close or open the drain hole. This is how the owner controls the filling level of the bathroom.
- Thanks to the sealed frame of the overflow hole, excess water does not seep through the rubber seal and does not accumulate on the floor. Water flows through the pipes and reaches the sewer pipe. There is no discomfort in using the system, as in old models that leaked due to high pressure, creating puddles under the bathtub.
- Bathtub overfilling no longer poses a threat to a person. If the user is distracted from the filling process due to unforeseen matters, then the only thing he will have to pay for is extra cubes. There will be no large puddles or water throughout the apartment, as in some films. Excess liquid exits through the overflow hole, which has a corrugated hose and connects to the sewer line.
- Some manufacturers produce products that protect the user and decorate the bathroom.
In stores there are models that can not only eliminate excess water, but also function together with the supply system. That is, a person can not install a faucet, but entrust the filling to this product. Some people like this solution because it allows you to create a minimalist style without a bulky faucet that stands out from the crowd.
Today the market is full of similar systems, some differ only in external design, while others differ in the material of manufacture. Thanks to this quantity, a person has a choice that will help give the room a new look or find an option that has never been used by friends.
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Safety precautions
Scheme for replacing a siphon under the sink.
Fecal water is a fairly toxic substance, and gases from sewers are completely explosive. Toxic substances can even penetrate the skin. Professional plumbers know this and take every precaution.
Home craftsmen practically never have to deal with gas emissions or large volumes of toxic substances, but it’s better to be on the safe side than to have health problems later.
In apartments of multi-storey buildings, the pipe outlet is securely closed with a water seal in the siphon. However, in the process of replacing this plumbing product, the pipe will open and you will be forced to work with sludge.
This can only be done with latex gloves. Be sure to wear a respirator and a protective plastic apron. This way you will protect yourself from harmful aggressive influences and will be able to replace the siphon without any damage to your health.
The procedure for dismantling communications and removing a cast iron bath ↑
The most difficult of all possible options is dismantling plumbing fixtures made of cast iron. The task becomes more complicated if the plans include removing the entire bathtub in order to use it later, for example, at the dacha. One person clearly cannot do this - a cast iron product can weigh up to 100 kg, so at least two people will have to work.
Dismantling the problematic old harness ↑
After removing all objects that interfere with the work from the room, the bathtub must be disconnected from all fittings, including the drain. Cast iron plumbing has been installed in many homes since ancient times, when drain lines were made of cast iron pipes. It is usually not possible to simply disassemble them after many years, so dismantling a cast-iron bathtub with removal will have to be done in other ways.
First you need to disconnect the overflow. If it is made of plastic parts, problems usually do not arise. But with old plumbing, you often have to deal with metal components, which are not easy to dismantle. Sometimes you can unscrew this element using pliers, simply by hooking them on the grille and turning it counterclockwise. If the overflow grate is very stuck, you will have to use an angle grinder:
- Make a deep cut on the overflow with a sander.
- Using saw cuts, knock down the overflow grate in parts with a chisel.
There are usually far fewer problems with plastic elements. You only need to unscrew the fastening element on the grille (bolt or nut), after which the overflow can be freely and effortlessly detached from the bathtub. The situation with the drain is similar - the siphon is easily disconnected after unscrewing the nut on the metal protective grille.
How to disconnect a cast iron siphon from a bathtub ↑
To dismantle the bathtub, you need to disconnect the drain from it. If the drain is made of cast iron, then difficulties may arise at this stage. There are several ways to disconnect a cast iron siphon from a plumbing fixture. The first is similar to that described above - an incision is also made on top of the plum with a grinder, but this time crosswise. The main thing here is to cut through only the drain grate without damaging the bathtub itself.
If you accidentally cut through the cast iron of a bathtub with a grinder, then you can no longer install a new trim on it in the future. Of course, if the surface layer of enamel is only slightly touched, nothing terrible will happen, but if a deep cut is made through negligence, the plumbing with the new piping will definitely leak. Next, you need to proceed in the same way as in the case of overflow:
- Place a chisel on one of the resulting cuts at an angle of approximately 45 degrees so that blows on the tool rotate the drain grate counterclockwise.
- Try to unscrew the drain in this way. If this is not possible, make the cuts as deep as possible and simply knock off the ribs of the grate. To do this, the chisel must be placed so that the blows are no longer directed counterclockwise, but inward - towards the center of the drain.
You can also use a chisel to knock out the crosspiece at the bottom of the grille. This will make it easier to get rid of the remaining parts after cutting. Upon completion of the dismantling of this element, the siphon will hang freely in the opposite area, being connected to the sewer lines. To remove it, you only need to break the coupling in this place.
An effective way to dismantle old trim ↑
Another way to remove the siphon to dismantle the bathtub involves using a hammer drill. The required element is secured under the bathtub with a large cast-iron nut, which is simply not possible to unscrew in the usual way after many years of operation. But if you use a hammer drill, the task becomes simpler:
- The tool must be switched to impact mode and a flat chisel attachment must be secured in the chuck.
- Loosen the large nut connecting the siphon to the drain, acting on the edges of the nut with a hammer drill in impact mode, so that it gradually unscrews, that is, counterclockwise. After which you can dismantle the siphon by hand.
There is nothing complicated about this method; in addition, there is no need to use a grinder, which can easily damage the enamel or even accidentally make a deep cut, rendering the bowl unusable.
Installing a siphon for a washing machine
Before installing the product in question, it is advisable to read the instructions for the washing machine. According to experts, the filter element must be installed at least 80 centimeters below the level of the household appliance. All areas of connecting parts must be carefully sealed, which will prevent possible leaks.
The installation processes for external and combined siphons are in many ways similar. Before starting work, check the position of the inlet pipe, which will provide some convenience in connecting the corrugation from the washing machine. First, make a mark on the wall at the level of the lid of the household appliance. In this place it is necessary to drill holes and secure the fastening clips.
Next, screw the siphon to the wall, install the O-ring and fix the drain hose. Now all that remains is to insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer system. Next, check the assembled structure for leaks and, if necessary, tighten the fasteners. In most cases, external siphons are delivered to the consumer with household appliances assembled, so such elements are connected as quickly as possible.
For a combined bathroom, this option is even preferable, because... does not clutter with additional devices, siphons, etc.
Design Features
Despite the wide range, variety of designs, designs and capabilities. The operating principle of each product is the same and consists of several points:
- Neck. The element is installed at the bottom. During installation, attention must be paid to sealing, since durability and reliability depend on it. The kit should contain special seals; if they are not present, then it is better not to buy such equipment. The neck has a grille that prevents large debris from entering and accumulating inside the system. Therefore, the chance of clogging is minimal.
- Siphon. The product is designed to form a water seal that prevents the penetration and spread of unpleasant odors into the room. Often the product is compact in size, since the space under the bathtub is limited, which does not allow the installation of large models. Another useful feature is the connection of all pipes to the sewer main. When choosing, attention is paid to volume, since its effectiveness depends on quantity. It is recommended to buy products where this value is at least 300 ml, more is possible.
- To connect to the sewerage pipes are used. The diameter of this element is universal – 50 mm. However, there are models with different designs. There is a cylindrical section at the end.
- An overflow neck is installed on the top of the bathtub. The product is equipped with an elbow, which is directed downward during installation. When the user buys a ready-made version, this element is connected to all the main parts at once, which greatly simplifies installation and operation.
- For the interaction between the drain neck and the overflow, a pipe is used, which is made of various materials. It can be rigid (made of metal or durable plastic) or flexible (for example, corrugated, often made of PVC). Differences in curvature and length are permitted.
- Closing device. The element allows you to control the filling of the bath.
How to install a siphon on a bath How to install a drain in a bathroom.
The siphon is one of the most important plumbing devices. Without it, neither sinks, nor showers, nor toilets, nor bathtubs and bidets can be installed. But, like any other device, the siphon eventually becomes unusable, wears out and ceases to function normally. How to install a siphon on a bathtub? Replacing a drain is not such a complicated undertaking that you need to call a specialist about it. All necessary work can be done with your own hands if you follow certain rules.
Photo 1. Installing a drain is not as difficult as it seems.
Why do you need a siphon?
The siphon is a transition link connecting the plumbing drain hole to the sewer pipe. It has two functions: filtering and shutter. Due to the presence of a special elbow, a certain amount of water remains in the siphon when using sanitary appliances. This small amount of water acts as a plug that “locks” sewer odors in the pipe and prevents them from entering the room.
The filtration function is expressed in the fact that heavy particles contained in the drains settle at the bottom of the bend. Therefore, if a ring or earring suddenly falls into the drain, you can always get it out by removing the plug.
There are instructions on how to install a drain in a bathroom. This is possible taking into account the characteristics of the sanitary device. Some models require that the bathroom siphon be replaced using parts specially made for it. You can install a bathtub drain with your own hands, but this requires studying at least the standard model of a siphon drain.
Photo 2. Siphon drains do not allow various contaminants to create blockages in the pipes.
Replacing the bath siphon
Have you decided to replace your old device with a new one? This means that first we dismantle the structure. Prepare a small bucket or some container to drain the water from the device elbow. We will also remove the plug where accumulated dirt can flow out. Therefore, in order to protect the floor in the bathroom, we place dishes under the dismantled structure.
Photo 3. Before replacing the siphon, it is worth preparing vessels for possible dirt.
How to install a drain in a bathtub
- We disassemble the old device. The procedure is quite simple and does not require any special knowledge or effort. Only in exceptional cases are the nuts on the siphon tightened to the limit and can be unscrewed using additional tools.
We remove the old siphon with inlet and outlet pipes. If the structure is quite old, then, most likely, the pipes will seem to be attached to the siphon. Therefore, try to disassemble the structure very carefully so as not to damage the sewer pipe system.
We clean the installation sites from pieces of rubber gaskets, rust, dirt and any irregularities. You can use sandpaper and a mild knife.
Try to dismantle the bathtub siphon and prepare a place for a new system in the shortest possible time. After all, all this time the sewer hole remains open, through which your bathroom will be filled with poisonous sewer aromas.
How to replace a siphon in a bathroom yourself
After preparation, you can proceed to installing a new drainage device. It is carried out in the same way as when installing a bathtub. In the kit you should find:
- exhaust pipe with rubber gasket;
two plastic nuts;
overhead rubber stopper;
stainless steel clamping screw;
rubber cuff-cone;
gasket with drain cover;
and a curved pipe or flask.
The assembly of the siphon depends on its type. If it is a bottle, then put a rubber gasket on the flask and screw on the bottom. The tubular type of device does not require preparation or assembly; we immediately proceed to the second stage - connecting the overflow to the bathtub
We pay special attention to tightening all elements (but without excessive zeal). Don't forget about rubber gaskets! After installing the overflow system, we proceed to connecting the pipe to the main drain, also paying attention to the reliability of tightening the connecting elements
Photo 4. Replacing the bathtub drain will not be a problem if you follow the instructions exactly.
The next step is installing a siphon on the bathtub. To attach it, you do not need additional tools - installation is carried out only by hand. Tightening nuts with wrenches and other devices can create unnecessary stress in the system. And it is one of the main reasons for the appearance of leaks and cracks in the system.
Leak test
After installing the siphon, you must wait a day for everything to “sit” in place and for the sealant to completely harden. Leak tests are carried out as follows: a large amount of water is poured into the bath. The plug should cover the drain. Be sure to check for leaks at the very first stages. If everything is in order, continue drawing water. When the bath is half full, open the plug and watch the siphon. If leaks appear, mark the places so that you can cover everything with sealant in the future. To test the overflow, take a few scoops of water and pour it into the hole. Observe the presence or absence of leaks. This can also be done using a shower, directing it towards the overflow.
The absence of leaks is a sign that the replacement of the siphon in the bathroom was completed successfully. As a rule, if you follow the instructions, everything goes without any problems.
What types are there?
There are not many varieties of this product based on the way it works. There are 3 types in total, which are completely different from each other:
- Mechanical systems;
- Semi-automatic;
- Automatic.
The name of each system is conditional. It reveals only the operating principle that occurs inside the equipment; automatic systems do not have any special features that allow control via a smartphone. To make it easier to navigate the store, it is important to know what the main differences between representatives are.
Mechanical option
Open overflow neck and drain hole, which is closed with a lid. Here are the main features of the equipment. The upper part can be covered with a decorative element. This does not make the throughput any worse. All functions work perfectly.
To close the bottom drain, the kit includes a special cover, which is made of plastic or metal, but has a rubberized part that ensures a tight fit. For greater convenience, some manufacturers equip the element with a chain; it allows you to quickly find the plug under water.
In many bathrooms, the mechanical product is in high demand. Because the bath itself has a long service life and is rarely changed. Of course, the product cannot provide any special features, and all actions are reduced to manual control, but its reliability has been proven over the years.
Advantages:
- Low price of equipment;
- Easy installation;
- Good durability indicator;
- Reliability.
There are disadvantages, not many of them, so most of them are conditional:
- An outdated option that is not suitable for lovers of modern solutions;
- Sometimes the plug can get lost, especially if there is a child in the apartment.
Semi-automatic devices
A modern option that features additional functionality and an affordable price. The equipment is equipped with special elements that increase operating comfort. The design of this device is much more complex, so installation work is recommended to be carried out by plumbers.
Advantages of execution:
- Convenient adjustment of the water level; a person does not need to come into contact with the water to find the plug; just turn the lever or press the button located on the overflow neck.
- Beautiful external design that stands out from the general background.
Flaws:
- If the user uses the drain hole control device several times a day, the cable will quickly become unusable and begin to work incorrectly.
- It is not recommended to install the structure in apartments where hard water flows through the water supply, because plaque will begin to form on the main elements. This will cause the equipment to break down after a couple of years of use.
Due to the fact that the system is equipped with a rotating element, this is its weak point. Therefore, the following problems occur:
- Cable breakage due to severe wear;
- Damage to the drain element;
- Flywheel failure.
There are many options for the formation of problems, so when choosing this product, attention is paid to the manufacturer and material. Everything must be manufactured at the highest level so that unexpected malfunctions do not occur. It is advisable to provide a long warranty. We also must not forget about proper operation; compliance with these rules often extends the service life by 2 times.
Automatic equipment
Of course, there is no complete automation in this product; all actions are performed using mechanical forces, as in the previous version. There are also differences, for example, to open or close, an intermediate element, for example, a cable, is not used, all actions are performed directly. This mechanism is located in the drain neck.
Advantages of the system:
- Ease of use;
- Beautiful appearance;
- There are practically no breakdowns, since there are no transmission mechanisms.
Despite the positive aspects, such equipment also has disadvantages:
- To descend from a bathtub where there is a large amount of water, you will have to dip your hand in the liquid and press the corresponding button;
- If the valve fails, a person will have to buy a new model, since the product cannot be repaired;
- Sometimes there are breakdowns of the latch where a spring is used. However, this element can be replaced, the main thing is to use the same model.
- Low bandwidth.
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Siphon assembly
Assembling the pipe siphon is not difficult. The elements are sequentially put on each other. Assembling a bottle structure is more difficult. You will have to perform several additional steps. In all cases, measure the distance between the floor and the bathtub.
The assembly process includes the following steps:
- Formation of the flask. The bottom is screwed to the cylinder. The connection is sealed with a rubber gasket. Both ends of the drain tube are equipped with fixing nuts. This also requires installation of a seal. One end of the tube is inserted into the upper hole of the flask, the second will be connected to the neck of the siphon. The joints are coated with sealant.
- Overflow installation. The height of the hose must correspond to the location of the bathtub overflow hole. The parameter must be measured before installation work begins. If the indicators match, the overflow hose is connected to the desired outlet of the flask. The height of the collection pipe is adjustable. The part extends according to the principle of a telescope. The required length is given to the corrugated hose by stretching. A bend is formed at the desired point. The outlet and overflow pipe are connected using a nut. It is wound by hand using moderate effort.
Assembling a siphon for a bath.
Before tightening the screws, you need to make sure that the hole in the tub matches the diameter of the hose. When securing the overflow, place the gasket supplied with the siphon between the surfaces.
Installation of a new device
You can change the siphon by following these steps::
- Surface preparation. The cast iron bath near the drain hole is cleaned of contaminants and treated with a degreasing compound.
- Installation of decorative grille. If the size of the part does not correspond to the diameter of the hole, the gap is closed with sealant.
- Connecting the outlet pipe. The neck of the siphon is connected to the grille with a screw, which is tightened, ensuring a tight fit of the parts.
- Connection of the structure to the sewer pipe. The bottom of the siphon is chamfered, which allows the part to be inserted into the outlet. The elements are secured with a nut, and before screwing it on, a conical gasket is installed. The connection is treated with sealant. If the diameter of the outlet does not match the size of the sewer pipe, use a plastic adapter.
The corrugated siphon is equipped with special pipes that facilitate installation. One side is connected to the neck, the other is discharged into the sewer system. The corrugation is stretched, giving it the desired bend.
Rating of the best mechanical drains and overflows
AlcaPlast A501
A high-quality system that will protect the premises from the penetration of water and unpleasant odors. Thanks to the optimal diameter, draining the water does not take time. The structure consists of stainless steel elements, and the pipes are made of plastic. A cork with a chain is included.
The average price is 780 rubles.
AlcaPlast A501
Advantages:
- Low price;
- Easy installation;
- High quality cork;
- Trouble-free operation for ten years.
Flaws:
- Not found.
viega 6387.35 311 537
A budget model that is suitable for many people who do not want to overpay for unnecessary features. The kit includes a stopper that allows you to fill the bath to a specific level. The neck of the overflow and drain hole is large, so water flows out at high speed.
Sold at a price of 590 rubles.
viega 6387.35 311 537
Advantages:
- Efficiency;
- Quick drain;
- Durability;
- Easy installation.
Flaws:
- Not found.
WIRQUIN 30718058
An excellent system that will not allow water to flow beyond the boundaries of the bath. Made of high-quality stainless steel and corrugated pipe with a universal diameter for connection to the sewer. The product has no parts that are subject to wear, so the service life is unlimited.
Sold at a price of 580 rubles.
WIRQUIN 30718058
Advantages:
- Reliability;
- Universal connection;
- Beautiful appearance;
- Simplicity.
Flaws:
- Not found.
Breaking down a cast iron bathtub for removal in parts ↑
If you need to dismantle an old bathtub and install a new one, then the easiest and fastest way to get rid of outdated plumbing fixtures is to simply break them apart with a sledgehammer. Cast iron is a strong metal, but it cannot withstand a series of strong blows from a heavy hammer and will definitely crack. After this, it will not be difficult for even one person to remove small pieces from the apartment.
The only significant drawback of this method is the extreme noise produced during the breaking process. To reduce the need for knocking, you can use a grinder. The procedure will be as follows:
- As in the previous case, disconnect the plumbing from the communications, cut or otherwise dismantle the drain pipe.
- Free the bathtub from cement mortar around the perimeter. If there is a decorative screen, then it is broken with a chisel and hammer.
- Move the bowl a little away from the edge of the wall. Using a grinder, make cuts on the curved edges in the middle on both sides. It is these edges that give the bowl the necessary rigidity, so you need to saw them completely.
Next, all that remains is to hit the bottom with a sledgehammer a couple of times, after which the bathtub will “fold” exactly in the middle. The only thing that should not be forgotten throughout the entire demolition of sanitary equipment is eye protection. Use special masks or goggles, otherwise chipped pieces of enamel or shavings can cause injury.
Video: How to break a cast iron bathtub ↑
The work of dismantling communications, demolishing and removing an old bathtub is not extremely difficult, although its labor intensity for one person is quite significant. The greatest difficulty is caused by dismantling a cast iron drain, the stuck nut of which is almost impossible to unscrew without the help of, for example, a hammer drill. Breaking will also require significant physical effort, so it is better to do the work with an assistant or immediately seek help from a specialist.
Video: Complete elimination of plumbing systems using an angle grinder ↑
DIY bathroom replacement
Content
Replacing a bathroom with your own hands is quite a labor-intensive process. Therefore, an assistant is required during installation. When installing a plumbing system, you need to be careful and careful, since installation is done almost by touch.
Choosing a bath
A cast iron bathtub is reliable and durable. The disadvantages of a cast iron bathtub are that the bathtub is heavy and it is very difficult to install such a bathtub. Also, a cast iron bath takes a long time to heat up and quickly releases heat.
A steel bathtub is the same in strength as a cast iron bathtub, but it is lighter. It warms up quickly, but just like a cast iron bathtub, it quickly releases heat. The enamel may chip from impacts. The installation of such a bathtub is simple - the legs are inserted into special grooves, fixed with metal wedges, the bathtub is attached to the legs - and that’s it, the assembly is ready.
— Acrylic bathtub is lightweight, with a variety of designs. Heats up quickly and retains heat for a long time, because... Plastic does not conduct heat well. An acrylic bathtub is easy to install using a special fastening system. The disadvantage of an acrylic bathtub is its sensitivity to mechanical damage and aggressive detergents.
Required tools and materials:
- — Rule;
- — Fork key;
- — Rubber hammer;
- — Screwdriver;
- — Pliers;
- — Chisel;
- — Crowbar;
- - Silicone sealant;
- — “rag” electrical tape;
- — Polyurethane foam.
Removing an old bathtub
During dismantling, it may be difficult to disconnect the old cast iron drain; it must be cut out. The plastic drain breaks, the legs are knocked out, the bathtub must be tilted and removed. The sewer pipe needs to be cleaned and wiped, a corrugation is installed there, all joints must be coated with sealant.
Video: how to dismantle an old bathtub
Installing a new bath
Before installation, it is necessary to prepare a solid, level base. If the floor covering is damaged during dismantling, the floor must be leveled. If necessary, a cement screed is made and tiles are laid.
Features of installing a cast iron bathtub
Due to its heavy weight, a cast iron bathtub requires support in the form of legs that are attached to the bottom of the bathtub. The legs of modern cast iron bathtubs are secured with a threaded connection and a nut. The height of the legs can be adjusted using a wrench.
Installation of siphon and overflow
After the bathtub is installed, it is necessary to install a siphon and overflow. The siphon is assembled from the parts included in the kit, after which it is installed in the drain and secured with a nut. The overflow tube is attached to the overflow, also using a nut. The siphon is connected to the sewer riser using a rubber cuff. The corrugated siphon pipe is formed in such a way that the possibility of blockages is eliminated; bending should be minimal.
Video: assembly and installation of a bath siphon
Next, the outlet is connected to the sewer pipe. It is necessary to waterproof all gaps and joints. The final stage is installing the faucet and shower hose.
Installation of an acrylic bathtub
The difference between an acrylic bathtub and a steel and cast iron bathtub is that an acrylic bathtub is lightweight. The bathtub body is less durable and can easily be damaged during installation.
Therefore, acrylic bathtubs are installed on a rigid frame. To install the frame to the bottom of the bathtub, mark the attachment points to the bottom with self-tapping screws. Holes are carefully drilled in these places. The required depth of the holes is indicated in the documents for the bathtub.
Video: installation of an acrylic bathtub
After the holes are drilled, the support rails are secured to the bottom with self-tapping screws. In order for the bathtub to stand more securely and firmly, it must be attached to the walls using special fasteners.
Rating of semi-automatic systems
Kaiser bathroom waste and overflow brass
A beautiful device that will give your bath a rich appearance. Suitable for connection to various structures and sewerage systems. Closing and opening of the valve is carried out using a special head. The body is made of brass, which distinguishes the product from many similar products. The controls are convenient, and the cable is made of high quality, which allows it to withstand frequent use.
The average cost is 2,810 rubles.
Kaiser bathroom waste and overflow brass
Advantages:
- Beautiful external design;
- Reliability;
- High service life;
- Efficiency.
Flaws:
- Not found.
GEBERIT 150.520.21.1
A reliable model with a water seal that is suitable for installation in various bathtubs. The approximate service life is 10 years, but with proper use the product can function for 15 years. Connection diameter – 50, 52 mm. The pipe is made of durable plastic, the rotation mechanism and the lid are made of stainless steel.
The average price is 2,200 rubles.
GEBERIT 150.520.21.1
Advantages:
- Efficiency;
- Durability;
- Drain speed;
- High quality plastic;
- The presence of a water seal;
- Good equipment;
- Price.
Flaws:
- Rigid construction.
McALPINE MRB2CB-PB
High-quality equipment with a pipe siphon, designed for connection in the bathroom. The pipe is made of plastic, and the metal elements are made of stainless steel, which are coated with silver paint. The throughput is 50 liters per minute, which is a good result. Like the previous model, the average service life is 10 years.
Sold at a price of 1,950 rubles.
McALPINE MRB2CB-PB
Advantages:
- High-quality organization of drainage;
- Easy connection;
- Durability;
- Bandwidth;
- Value for money.
Flaws:
- Not found.
Types and features of siphons
Depending on the material, plumbing siphons come in 2 types:
- plastic;
- metal.
The advantages of polymer drainage devices include:
- ease of installation;
- low cost;
- resistance to mold growth;
- resistance to corrosion.
Disadvantages of plastic siphons:
- Limited service life. Often, a metal cable is used to deal with a clog in the sink; if handled carelessly, it can destroy the fragile polymer material.
- Insufficient tightness. To solve the problem of loose fitting of the nuts during assembly, the fastening structures are supplemented with rubber seals.
- Increased likelihood of leaks caused by manufacturing defects. Small irregularities on the surface during operation lead to the appearance of cracks.
Copper, brass, cast iron, and stainless steel are used for the production of metal siphons. The reliability and durability of cast iron drains explain the high cost. The chrome plating adds an aesthetically pleasing appearance. The disadvantage is the complicated installation technology.
Based on design features, drainage devices are divided into 3 types:
- Tubular. Manufactured from a curved hose with an S- or U-shape configuration.
- Bottled. They are made in the form of a flask, which is filled with water during operation. To carry wastewater into the sump, a pipe of smaller diameter is connected to the tank. Having reached a given level, the liquid overflows and flows into the sewer. Siphons do not dry out during interruptions in water supply.
- Combined. The design consists of a corrugated hose connected to a flask. The systems are installed in bathrooms of multi-storey buildings.
According to the principle of operation, drainage devices are:
- Universal. Standard siphons are characterized by the absence of unnecessary elements. A plug is used to regulate the water level. A simplified installation technology is provided.
- Semi-automatic. They differ from the previous version by the presence of a special mechanism that remotely controls the drainage. The fragility of the semi-automatic device requires extreme caution during installation and gentle operation.
- Automatic. The systems lack most standard parts. Regulating the sewer connection area is the task of the built-in mechanism. According to the control principle, they are divided into 2 categories: with a manual lever and “click-clack”.
It is recommended to install a universal siphon. Drain repair is simple and can be done with your own hands.
Drain system material
The harnesses on the market today are made from two types of materials: plastic polymers and metal alloys.
Plastic structures
The basis for the manufacture of plastic strappings are modern polymers, which are distinguished by high performance parameters. The main advantages of plastic:
- resistant to high temperatures;
- creates a smooth inner surface;
- resistant to corrosion and chemicals.
Among the models on the market, plastic straps are the most popular. Many consumers choose them due to their successful combination of affordable cost and excellent quality characteristics.
The only drawback of the polymer is its fragility, so when installing plastic products you should be extremely careful. In addition, plastics made by casting and soldering often have burrs.
Before joining the elements and installing the system, they must be thoroughly cleaned - otherwise leaks cannot be eliminated.
Metal systems
The material for the manufacture of metal structures is polished stainless steel, brass or copper. All of these alloys are equally well suited for the manufacture of systems that interact with water.
They are durable and famous for their long service life.
A significant disadvantage of metal structures is the complexity of installation, which requires precise adherence to dimensions.
Many consumers note that the inner walls of metal products are more susceptible to the settling of dirt and grease deposits, which, if not removed in a timely manner, can narrow the passage for water drainage.
And the cost of metal structures is an order of magnitude higher in comparison with the same polymer structures.
Required materials and tools
To change the drain device, you will need a minimum set of tools consisting of a screwdriver, pliers and a wrench.
Before starting work, the completeness of the factory delivery of the sanitary siphon is checked, including:
- frame;
- drain pipe;
- decorative grille masking the drain;
- cuffs made of rubber and polymers;
- fastening hardware (bolts and nuts);
- elastic gaskets for sealing joints.
If one or more items are missing, the missing parts must be purchased separately.
In addition, high-quality installation work is impossible without additional materials:
- tow or rags;
- sealing composition based on silicone or rubber;
- FUM tapes.
When dismantling, you will need a container to drain the water. A large bucket or basin will do.
Classification of siphons according to drain design
The adapter design includes 2 units:
- A drain block that is attached under the bathtub and is designed to drain water.
- Overflow pipe. Its presence prevents liquid from draining through the top. The overflow hole is located at the end of the tank near the edges.
Depending on how the opening and closing of the drainage hole are regulated, there are 3 types of siphons: mechanical, semi-automatic and automatic.
Mechanical
The devices have the simplest design - the drain channel is blocked by a plug made of rubber or plastic. It is connected to the hole in the overflow pipe using a chain. Such adapters are easy to assemble, are reliable, durable and low in price.
Semi-automatic
In semi-automatic siphons, adjustment is carried out using a shut-off valve located on the overflow above the water level. It can take the form of a button, a rotary ring or a shaped valve. Control occurs using a cable or lever mechanism connected to the hole cover.
When purchasing, it is recommended to choose fittings from leading manufacturers, since the durability and uninterrupted operation of the mechanisms depend on this.
Automatic
In devices of this type, the process of filling the bath is regulated by built-in automation. When the liquid cools, it is drained and warm water is added to the required volume. Such systems require regular maintenance and no power interruptions. Automatic siphons are produced in 2 versions:
- With click-clack system. The plug is fixed on a pin, which is activated by simply pressing.
- With a handle located next to the overflow hole. The devices differ from semi-automatic devices in their built-in protection system.
Siphon with click-clack system.
They are made from brass and copper alloys, coated with a layer of chromium for protection.
How to connect a siphon to the sewer. Advantages of using corrugation
Connecting the sink to the sewer can be done using 2 methods. It is possible to use simple plastic pipes, or perhaps a siphon exit with a corrugated pipe entering the sewer pipe.
This solution has a couple of advantages:
- The corrugation under the sink stretches without any trouble due to the corrugated side wall, so there is no need to worry about miscalculating the length of the pipe;
Note! It is still not recommended to stretch it too much. It is important to remember that the wall is made of rubber and is not particularly durable; if it is stretched excessively, its service life will be shortened.
- simplifies the installation process. If when using simple pipes it is impossible to do without turns, then the corrugation allows you to immediately connect the entrance to the sewer with the exit from the siphon;
- in cramped conditions, the use of simple pipes can be very complicated; the corrugated analogue under such conditions is very ergonomic;
- low price and availability are also advantages - you can buy a bottle siphon with a corrugated connection for about 200-300 rubles in any plumbing store.
There are also a number of disadvantages, some quite significant:
- a ribbed surface is not the best option for draining waste, especially in the kitchen. In the bathroom this does not play a special role, since only water is discharged into the sewer, but in the kitchen the corrugation can quickly become clogged. This is due to the fact that in addition to water, fat and other substances that you have to deal with in the kitchen pass through it; the folds become clogged very quickly;
- less resistance to mechanical action - the narrow rubber wall is very easy to damage;
- the impossibility of using a plunger to clear a clogged sewer, the pressure drops created along with this can lead to a wall rupture. Other methods of clearing clogs, for example, using a plumbing cable, are also prohibited.
Diagnosis of a faulty siphon
In order to determine the causes of the leak, the siphon must be inspected and disassembled. This work does not require any tools, since connection and disassembly is carried out solely by hand force. Using different keys can only aggravate the situation, since under their pressure the plastic can burst. This also applies to metal siphons. When assembling them, steel bolts are used, which over years of operation become tightly attached to the nuts and body of the product.
- Pour strong detergent into the drain hole. After some time, rinse the sink drainage system with boiling water. This technique will allow you to remove dirt, plaque, food waste and all fat deposits from the pipes and siphon, which will greatly facilitate further work.
- Prepare a bucket and rags to collect liquid that will inevitably spill when disassembling the siphon. In order not to breathe sewer gases, you need to buy a plug that is the same size as the drain pipe. Modern plastic systems use pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. Prepare liquid soap to lubricate the rubber cuff.
Preparatory work
Before purchasing a siphon, you must measure the diameter of the old spout in advance so as not to make a mistake with the purchase. A new one should be purchased with the same fit size. If a suitable siphon is not available, it is recommended to purchase an additional adapter sleeve. The sealing collar should also be purchased together with the siphon in order to immediately check how well it fits with it. Large burrs on the side of the spout indicate poor quality of the product, so you should not take a siphon of this quality - the existing burrs will not allow the cuff to fit tightly on the product.
Removing the old siphon
The preparatory work is quite simple. It is necessary to remove the old siphon and clean the sewer pipe. However, you should not clean it until it shines, since the cuff is designed to fit on a rough surface. Lastly, it is recommended to lay out the equipment and the necessary tools in front of you, so as not to make unnecessary movements in search of the required material.
Repair Tips
Before removing the installed product, place a basin or bucket under the tank so that the water accumulated in it does not fall on the floor.
Immediately after disassembling the siphon, you need to clean all parts of dirt and old sealant in order to assess their safety and degree of wear. After completing assembly of the product, reapply the sealant. After tightening all the elements, do not forget to remove excess sealant.
When assembling the elements, you do not need to exert much effort. This is especially true for plastic models, in which it is very easy to break the thread or cause a crack to appear. First you need to assemble the entire structure, and only then tighten the individual parts.
If rust has formed where the siphon is connected to the plumbing or sewer system, remove it before installing the device.
If you have a double-sided siphon model, then when replacing gaskets in one part of it, it is better to immediately replace them in the second half of the product, because the service life of identical gaskets usually differs little. The same applies to products with a hole inside the flask for connecting a washing machine or dishwasher.
In cases where the thread of the sump cover is partially damaged, you can not rush to change the part, but limit yourself to applying additional layers of silicone sealant on both sides of the gasket.
How to properly assemble a siphon for a sink with water overflow
Mounting location installation
After determining the location of the sink, you need to determine the height of its installation. It depends on its type.
The sink located in the bathroom can be installed on a pedestal or without additional parts. If no additional parts are attached to the sink, the average height of its location should be 85–90 cm; if the sink being installed has a support horn or other parts for support, the height of its installation should correspond to the height of the supporting parts.
The height of the sink installed in the kitchen must be the same as the height of the kitchen cabinet into which it will be installed. To fix the selected height level on the wall surface, you must draw a horizontal line.
Automatic drains and overflows
AlcaPlast A504KM
An excellent model that is distinguished by high-quality workmanship and a long service life. Drain diameter - 52 mm. The main components are made of brass and stainless steel. A special feature of the equipment is the ability to adjust the height, which greatly simplifies installation operations. The diameter of the metal plug is 70 mm. The grille is made of high-quality alloy, which shows high resistance to corrosion.
The average price is 2,850 rubles.
AlcaPlast A504KM
Advantages:
- Optimal price;
- Convenient control;
- Efficiency;
- Durability;
- Quick drain;
- Easy connection.
Flaws:
- Not found.
Timo 8004 Chrome
An automatic model, distinguished by its beautiful appearance and high price. The diameter of the hole for connecting to the sewer pipe is 4 cm. Thanks to this device, it will be easier to control the water level in the bathroom, and the original design will add attractiveness to the room. The body is made of chrome-plated brass, which shows high resistance to high temperatures and household chemicals.
The average price is 4,700 rubles.
Timo 8004 Chrome
Advantages:
- External execution;
- High service life;
- Made from wear-resistant materials;
- Universal connection sizes;
- Withstands aggressive substances;
- 5 years warranty.
Flaws:
- Not found.