Sewer smell in a private home: causes and solutions

Even the most careless homeowner acts quickly and energetically in the event of sewerage problems.

And this is not surprising, because this system very persistently knows how to draw attention to its own problems - the most unpleasant smell helps it in this.

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Only a person completely deprived of the sense of smell can put up with it; everyone else has to roll up their sleeves and immediately get to work. Our article, the topic of which is the smell of sewerage in a private house: causes and elimination, will be a good help in this.

Causes of unpleasant odors

Let’s start our review of the causes of sewer smell in a private home with the most likely ones:

The water seals were left without water: the direct duty of the water seal is precisely to prevent the penetration of foul-smelling air from the sewer into the room. This device is designed (it can be found under every sanitary fixture) in such a way that it always contains a small portion of water, which acts as a plug. It is clear that in the absence of water, the water seal (also called a siphon) will not be able to perform its function.
The appearance of leaks at the junctions of various pipeline elements: since wastewater in the sewerage system “travels” by gravity, that is, without excess pressure, all elements of this system are connected in the least reliable way - through a socket. Such a connection may leak under the following circumstances: installation errors, drying out of the rubber sealing element (important for polymer pipelines) and poor water drainage due to blockage or insufficient pipe slope.
Violation of the integrity of the pipe wall or other element.

Now let's see how we can correct the situation in each specific case.

Replacing pipes is an expensive undertaking, so many people try to save money and carry out all the work themselves. Replacing pipes in an apartment: wiring options, selection and installation of pipes.

Read about how to replace a sewer riser in an apartment building here.

A country house with all communications is the dream of every homeowner. You need to think about laying a sewer system at the construction stage. In this topic https://aquacomm.ru/cancliz/zagorodnyie-doma/avtonomnaya/kak-sdelat-kanalizatsiyu-v-chastnom-dome.html we will look at how sewerage should be arranged in a private house. Pipe layout and waste disposal facilities.

Smells like sewer due to improper connection and installation of pipes

The sewer stinks. We eliminate it. Let's prevent it.

When installing a sewer pipeline, you need to pay attention to rational installation. In this case we mean the following:

The gravity drain pipeline must have a minimum number of bends, which avoids a decrease in the flow rate and, consequently, the removal of solid fractions of contaminated water.
“Angle” connections are made with special fittings that have an inclination of 135 or 150 degrees. The connection is made towards the liquid drain.
It is strictly not recommended to connect at an acute angle, as this will disrupt the free flow of liquid.
When installing a drainage system, all pipes must be aligned with the connected pipes or fittings. Otherwise, tension is created at the socket connection, which can lead to the formation of microcracks with loss of tightness. An important role in connecting socket pipes is played by seals, which can leak if distorted.
The installation of the pipeline is carried out with increasing pipe sizes as it moves towards the outlet. If the standard size for the receiving pipe to which the siphons are connected is 50 millimeters, then the riser is already 100-110 mm in size, and the external sewer outlet is 120-150 mm.

Guided by these simple rules, any owner of a private home can independently install their own sewer system.

The problem is in the water seal

There are several reasons why the water seal could be left without water:

Drying out

Everything is clear here: if the device is not used for a long time, the water in the siphon dries out.
As soon as it is filled with water again, the unpleasant odor entering the room will stop. The problem of a dry siphon is most typical for private baths and saunas, which are usually used once a week. In such rooms it is recommended to install so-called dry water seals.

In them, the role of a plug is played not by water, but by a light ball or valve, which, if there are drains, float up and open the way for them, and if there are none, they fall onto the saddle and block the hole leading to the sewer.

The only device that cannot be equipped with such a water seal is the toilet.

The appearance of a crack in the siphon body

This is rare, but it happens. We will tell you below how to repair a hole if it is not yet possible to replace the part.

Disruption

Conventional U-shaped siphons are susceptible to failure.

If the pressure inside the sewer pipe is much less than the outside pressure, the water plug from the water seal will be drawn into the system - this is a failure.

The pressure drops in cases where a large amount of water is discharged into the sewer: it fills the entire pipe and moves in it like a piston in a pump.

Most often, a breakdown occurs when the drain tank is emptied.

To compensate for the pressure drop, the sewer risers are “connected” to the atmosphere through a waste pipe, which is discharged to the street. So, if the system is properly configured, there should be no failures. If they are still observed, the reason may be the following:

The horizontal collector pipe, to which all devices are connected, has insufficient diameter. Typically, the collector is laid to the toilet with a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. But if too many devices are “hung” on it, the diameter should be increased to 80 or 100 mm. Otherwise, the drains will block the entire cross-section of the pipe and produce a suction effect, which is especially noticeable in polymer pipes with their very smooth walls.
The toilet is located further than 1 m from the riser: a distance of 1 m is the maximum permissible - this is a requirement of building codes. Otherwise, breakdowns will occur quite often. As already mentioned, a substantial portion of water from the cistern moves in the pipe like a piston. The greater the distance such a “piston” travels to the riser with ventilation, the more the pressure in the pipe has time to drop.
The drain pipe turned out to be clogged.

We'll talk about this in the next section.

If possible, install so-called instead of U-shaped siphons. bottle ones (similar in design to a hookah) - it’s impossible to pick them off.

Correct installation

If an unpleasant odor appeared immediately after installing the sewerage system and using it, then there is a high probability that the problem lies in incorrect installation: incorrect calculations were made, an inaccurate diagram was used and an incorrect slope of the pipes.

To be able to identify connection errors that lead to the formation of a stench, you should know the rules and requirements:

The toilet structure is mounted below all other devices at a separate point.
The riser should not be narrower than the diameter of the toilet outlet (100 mm). The diameter of other connections is larger than the size of the outlet pipe of the plumbing fixture, and preferably equal to 70 mm.
The distance of the toilet structure from the riser should not be more than 1 m; other devices can be placed at a distance of no more than 3 m.
When installation is made to a riser at a distance of more than 3 m, it is made from a pipe of 70 mm or more.

When installing a sewer system, it is better to follow the step-by-step instructions
. The most common mistake is using 900 shaped corners to design turns. The water bounces off in them, and this leads to the rapid formation of blockages. To avoid this, 1350 turns are used, which create a smooth flow.

One of the critical mistakes is failure to comply with standards and requirements when installing a sewerage system.

For example, failure to comply with the pipeline slope level. Such a mistake always leads to a clogged pipeline and an unpleasant odor, and it can only be solved by redoing the entire job, that is, reinstalling the sewer system.

Ventilation problem

Clogging of a drain pipe with debris occurs quite rarely and mainly in cases where the pipe is laid out horizontally (through the wall, not onto the roof) and covered with a decorative rosette.

Most often, the cross-section of the ventilation pipe decreases due to icing: it is obvious that the sewer contains a huge amount of water vapor, and when it enters the outer part of the ventilation pipe, it settles on its walls in the form of condensation.

If it is frosty outside, the condensation will immediately turn into an ice crust, which will gradually increase.

To avoid icing, you need to do the following:

Insulate the pipe.
Remove the cap from its head if one was installed by mistake. The installation of a protective cap is prohibited by building codes, since it is on it that an ice plug begins to form in winter.

To check the functionality of the fan pipe, you need to open the inspection at its base (installed between this pipe and the riser) and bring a piece of paper to the hole: if the pipe is clean, the air draft will attract the sheet to the inspection. Otherwise, the fan pipe will have to be cleaned.

Sealing cracks in sewer pipes

It is clear that a leaky pipe or other element needs to be replaced, but the following can be done as temporary measures:

If the breakdown has a round shape

You can offer several “amateur” options:

Hammer a short, conical-shaped wooden plug into the hole (the long one will collect dirt).
Wrap the damaged area with gauze or a bandage and then impregnate them with epoxy resin.
Wrap the area with the fistula with a wide rubber band (with tension), and then pull it tightly with several turns of wire.

“Proper” repair involves installing a clamp with a rubber gasket or a repair coupling.

If the hole looks like a crack

Icing, which was described above, leads to the appearance of such defects. They can also be caused by pipe defects.

If the crack is not through, it must be carefully widened, cleaned, treated with a degreaser and, after drying, filled with sewer pipe sealant.

Through cracks are reliably sealed by “cold welding”, also applied to a degreased surface.

The appearance of leaks

If drains begin to leak at the junction of elements, the fastest way to correct the situation is with the help of a special sealing tape. It appeared relatively recently, consists mostly of polyethylene and is intended to solve precisely this kind of problem. Sealing tape is used as follows:

Dust and dirt are washed off from the surface of the pipes at the junction, and then dried.
Trying to pull it tighter, the tape is wound around the joint and adjacent sections of pipes. It should lie without wrinkles or folds. Each turn overlaps the previous one by half the width.
Having passed the joint in one direction, they begin to move in the opposite direction, so that the tape is ultimately laid in two layers.
If the joint to be sealed is located outdoors, the tape must be protected from UV radiation with an additional coating or casing.

One of the reasons for leaks, as already mentioned, is the loss of elasticity of the sealing rubber due to natural aging. In this case, it is recommended to additionally coat the joints with silicone sealant for sewer pipes. This is especially true for pipelines laid in a hidden way, for example, from a drain built into the floor.

It is better to use a neutral sealant, since an acidic one (it is cheaper) can have a negative effect on some materials.

Another common cause of leaks is stagnation of water in the pipe due to a blockage.

Preventive measures

If a leak is detected at the joints of pipes, resulting in an odor, you should pay attention to the causes of the leak. The pipes may shift, then you need to restore their correct position. The rubber seals (rings) that are present on plastic pipes may fail; these rings must be replaced or the joints must be treated with sealant.

If the pipes are made of cast iron, then silicone sealant or, if installed horizontally, a cement solution should be used.

Over time, both the drain and the ventilation system may become dirty again and begin to emit an unpleasant odor.

In order to prevent the smell from appearing from the sewer, it is necessary to regularly carry out preventive measures

This can be avoided by following the following:

Every 2 weeks, pour 5-10 liters of hot water into the drain with any fat-dissolving detergent.
Disassemble and clean the siphon once a month.
Every six months, clean the pipes with a special product or caustic soda.
Use a piece of paper to check your hood regularly and clean the grille with detergent.

If you do not forget about these preventive measures and are not lazy in taking them, unpleasant odors from the sewer will not bother you.

Having discovered an unpleasant specific odor at home, you should investigate the cause of its occurrence and only then choose means aimed at combating it. This way you will save energy and time fixing the problem.

How to get rid of a blockage?

How to remove the smell of sewerage in a private house and get rid of the blockage?

If there is no time to take serious measures, you can try to push through the blockage by pumping it with a plunger.

A more effective tool is a special cable with a handle similar to the handle of a brace.

When feeding the cable into the sewer, the rotation helps it go through bends and turns.

Today there are effective chemicals that can corrode dirt plugs. The most popular are the compositions of the “Mole” and “Tiret” brands.

In the pipe coming from the kitchen sink, blockages can form due to grease accumulating on the walls. To cope with this problem, you can pass a couple of buckets of hot water through the pipe, in which you must first dissolve a pack of soda.

Clogged sewer - ways to get rid of it

Putrid smells often come from clogged siphons, but under certain conditions they can also come from other areas. If a slowdown in drainage is noticed, accompanied by a putrid spirit from the sink, a plug of dirt and grease has formed in the siphon, preventing the water from draining normally. The liquid stagnates, putrefactive bacteria quickly multiply in it, the waste products of which are gases that poison the air. There are several ways to get rid of a grease and dirt plug, depending on the degree of access to it.

If the siphon is accessible and made of plastic, the easiest way is to unscrew it, wash it with warm water and soap and put it back together. Cleaning will be 100%.

A less labor-intensive method is chemical: you can use industrial or home remedies. The method of using ready-made products is explained in the instructions for use. Please pay attention to the purposes for which the product is intended:

preventive – for periodic use to prevent blockages;
active – if it is noticed that the water has begun to drain more slowly;
emergency – serious gaps are eliminated.

Please pay attention to the characteristics of the products: universal – for all occasions, fat-breaking – for the kitchen, hair-breaking – for the bath.

For home remedies, we use baking soda, citric acid, and vinegar. To prepare a working solution, take half a glass of soda or 2 packets of citric acid, dilute it with hot water, about 3 liters. Pour the liquid into the drain. You can use baking soda and vinegar. First, pour a glass of soda into the drain, and pour a glass of vinegar there. A violent reaction begins, corroding the fat. After use, rinse the system with water. Home remedies are suitable for the kitchen as preventive measures; they will not remove severe blockages.

Among the mechanical means we use a plunger and a plumbing cable. Cleaning with a plunger is very simple: place the plunger on the drain hole of the sink with water, press firmly several times and remove with a jerk. If the water drains quickly, the blockage has been removed. If not, we repeat the procedure.

If the plug has formed at a distance from the appliances, use a plumbing cable. We do the work together. First, we open access to the place of blockage, for example, remove the siphon or covers on the riser. We insert the cable into the pipe and begin to move deeper. Another person rotates the handle of the cable, winding various debris around the cable. If the end of the cable rests, we still move forward, destroying the blockage. After removing it, we flush the system.

Features of eliminating sewer odors in a private home

It should be noted that in some cases, the sewage system may not be involved in the appearance of an unpleasant odor, although it will be very similar to “sewage”. Here are some common reasons:

dirt accumulating in the pump and drain tract of the washing machine;
sludge on the walls of the cistern;
water getting between the bathtub and the acrylic insert.

The presence of places with constant dampness, for example, under a bathtub, if the seam between it and the wall is poorly sealed, will also lead to the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

The most effective way to get rid of blockages in pipes is a plumbing cable for clearing drains. Read the article on how to use it correctly.

Why you need an air valve for sewerage and whether it is necessary to install it, you will learn in this topic.