Toilet barrel flush mechanism: structure and principle of operation

Today, a toilet is not a luxury item. In addition, the use of this device in apartments required improvement of the design.

The use of automatic filling and draining made it possible to maximize sanitary and hygienic conditions and the undeniable convenience of such a unit. Automation, in turn, has given rise to a huge number of so-called toilet cistern fittings.

Brief overview of the article

Toilet flush mechanism: operating principle and basics of device repair

the toilet flush mechanism included in its kit . The latter most often fails, which leads to the creation of uncomfortable conditions when visiting the bathroom. In order to encounter this problem less often, you should correctly select, install and configure the drainage mechanism. This article will help you deal with this issue.

In order for the drain mechanism to perform its functions efficiently, it must be installed and configured correctly.

Common Problems

The occurrence of malfunctions in the toilet cistern is the most common malfunction in the functioning of the product. It is in this place that the main working mechanisms are located. Most often, toilet flush fittings suffer from increased frequency of use and technical flimsiness of the structure.

To properly troubleshoot the problem, it is important to understand how the mechanism works. That is why, before taking decisive action, they understand the design. Knowing the type of product will simplify the task.

How the toilet cistern works: the internal filling of the device

The normal operation of the drainage system is ensured through the interaction of its individual components. The water supply to the container is carried out thanks to the fill or inlet valve for the toilet. It is represented by a threaded pipe that is inserted into a hole in the side wall or bottom of the tank. The presence of a thread allows you to press the element to the tank wall using nuts, which will ensure a tight connection. Control over the opening and closing of the hole through which water enters is carried out by a locking mechanism connected to the rocker arm.

The principle of operation of the flush mechanism in the toilet cistern.

The rocker arm is the lever that moves the exhaust valve. The free end of the element is attached to a float or control valve. A float is a plastic sealed container with air inside. At the moment when the float floats up or the shut-off device is activated, the rocker arm rises, which helps to close the gap in the filling valve or vice versa.

In normal condition, the drain hole is closed by the drain valve. This is a flat or hemispherical elastic gasket that connects the load-bearing part to the hinge mount.

The operation of the drain mechanism for the tank is controlled by a push-button or lever mechanism, which is located in the upper part of the tank. When exposed to it, its load-bearing part rises, opening a hole for water to flow at high speed into the toilet bowl.

All components of the mechanism can be arranged in different ways. In older models of tanks, the flushing and water overflow control mechanisms were mounted separately. In modern models, shut-off valves are presented as a single complex, which facilitates easy installation and configuration, while at the same time complicating repairs.

Water is supplied to the tank capacity through a fill or inlet valve.

How a toilet flush mechanism should work

The flush mechanism for the toilet is located inside the tank. It does not have a complex design, but it performs important functions. The drain mechanism is responsible for draining water from the tank, filling the container with water, and controlling the water level, which eliminates the possibility of the tank overflowing when the liquid reaches a certain level.

The principle of operation of the drain tank is as follows. Water enters the container through a fill valve, which may be located in the wall or bottom of the tank. As the container fills, a shut-off device in the form of a float or valve is activated, which shuts off the supply of liquid when it reaches a certain level, blocking the filling valve.

When it becomes necessary to flush the water, the button or lever is pressed, which opens the shut-off valve of the toilet cistern. As a result, liquid enters the toilet bowl. Double button systems work similarly. When the small button is pressed, part of the water is poured out of the tank, when the large button is pressed, a complete drain is performed.

Note! The flush mechanism of the toilet tank with a button for two modes ensures water saving.

Water can enter the tank through a valve located in the bottom or wall.

Draining the water entails a decrease in the liquid level in the container. This helps activate the control devices, as a result of which the outlet valve opens and the tank fills with water.

Repair of valve faults

Troubles usually happen unexpectedly, when there is no way to call a specialist or seek help from more knowledgeable people, so you always need to be prepared to act independently.

Failures of the float mechanism can disable the operation of the drain tank, and flushing it off with water from buckets every time is not an interesting task. Let's figure out how to quickly change or repair the float in the toilet if it has become unusable.

Violation of the tightness of the plastic ball

When the old float wears out, a crack may appear, which over time will turn into a hole. Liquid will begin to flow through the hole into the plastic ball, and it will no longer be able to float up and block the inlet valve. A problem arises - a constant flow of water in the toilet. Water losses quickly turn into financial costs.

Let's find out how to avoid this:

• turn off the water;
• remove the float;
• wipe it dry;
• cover the crack with waterproof sealant;
• dry;
• fix the float in the tank;
• We check his work.

There is no point in repairing a float with a large hole or completely leaky plastic; in this case, we rush to the store and purchase a new part to replace it.

If the float valve fills with water due to a ruptured membrane or a crack in the valve, this sealing device must be replaced:

Image gallery

Photo from

Step 1: Removing the toilet float valve

Step 2: Disassemble the float head

Step 3: Diaphragm rupture - cause of problem

Step 4: Reassemble the Float Device

Skewed float structure

Due to wear of the rubber (silicone) seals or due to poor water quality, the glass-type float device may become misaligned.

Does the plastic float “stick” with each release of water or does it even stop moving up and down relative to the guide “sliders”. Depending on its position, either the flow of water into the tank stops, or, on the contrary, it constantly pours, flowing straight into the sewer.

A common cause of breakdowns is poor quality tap water. It is characterized by a high content of lime and rust, which settle on the walls of the “glass” and on the rods (holders, guides)

First, try cleaning the mechanism without disassembling the entire structure. Perhaps the movement of the float is slowed down by debris that has fallen into the water. If this does not help, you will have to turn off the water, remove the tank, and then the float block. The drainage device may not be touched.

Then we carry out diagnostics and act on the results: we correct the position of the float and install it in place or completely change the block responsible for the water inlet.

Most often, breakdowns associated with changes in the position of the structure are corrected quickly, while it is better not to repair worn-out devices, but to replace them with new ones.

Types of drain fitting design for toilet cistern

There are several options for the drainage system. The filling valve can be bottom or side mounted. In the first case, the pipe is located in the bottom of the drain container. This system includes a vertical rod float, a rod and a buoy. The last two elements are connected into a common structure, which acts as a water limiter.

When the tank is empty, the float lowers. At this moment, draft begins to act on the toilet valve, opening it. When the float reaches a certain level, the valve closes. Sealing of the system is ensured by a pair of gaskets.

When placed on the side, the pipe with the valve is inserted into the tank through a side hole, which is located in the wall of the container under the lid. This gap is made conditionally sealed, since water does not reach it. In this design, the control mechanism of the flush tank is placed horizontally. It consists of a shut-off device, a float, a lever and a filling tube. When the tank is emptied, the float lowers, which moves a rod that opens the shut-off valve. When the tank is filled with water, the control mechanism gradually rises.

In a side-mounted valve design, the mechanism is located horizontally.

From the point of view of efficient and comfortable operation of the drainage device, it is better to choose models with a bottom connection, which are more reliable and make less noise when the container is filled with water. Systems with side connections are characterized by ease of installation and ease of adjustment and repair work.

Note! Tanks with bottom connections require close attention to the tightness of the connection.

The flush mechanism is activated by a trigger, which can be a lever, a rod or a toilet button. Older models were equipped with a lever to which a cord with a handle or a chain was attached. The drain system with a rod was activated by lifting the handle up. This option has also lost popularity and is rarely found in modern tanks.

Bottom-mounted designs are more reliable.

Currently, models are most often controlled by pressing a button located in the tank lid. The push system, in turn, can be one-button or two-button. In the first case, the tank is completely emptied when you press the button. The second option involves two modes of operation of the tank drain mechanism with a button. The first ensures that half the volume of the container is drained, and the second ensures that the tank is completely emptied.

Adjusting the shutter button

For the shutter button to work, it needs to be calibrated. This can be done by repeatedly selecting the height of the button mechanism, and then tightening it and checking the level to see if the button sits tightly on top and at the same time returns when you press it back to its original “not pressed” position. The height calibration of the button mechanism must be adjusted through the top (usually blue) mount, as shown at the very beginning of the article. When the button is pressed, the lower mount is lowered, which lifts the rubber bolt at the bottom of the tank to allow water to flow into the toilet and returns back when water is drawn back into the tank. It is this that needs to be calibrated so that the tank is tightly closed with the lid on top of the release button.

Types of toilet flush valve as a system overflow control mechanism

The toilet cistern flush valve can be a float or membrane shut-off device. Models of the first option may differ in structure and principle of operation. Old tanks were equipped with Croydon valves, which consisted of a body, piston, axle, seat and float lever. When the float lever was acted upon, the mechanism began to function. In this case, the piston moved vertically.

Most modern drain mechanisms are equipped with a piston valve, which moves horizontally when the lever is pressed. The water supply is regulated by the contact of the piston and the seat. When the container is filled, the inlet hole is closed using a gasket located at the end of the piston.

The diaphragm valve is not equipped with a piston gasket, but with a rubber or silicone membrane. When a lever acts on it, the plastic piston begins to displace the membrane, which closes the water supply.

The drain valve can be equipped with a diaphragm or float mechanism.

Note! The diaphragm valve facilitates quick and silent filling of the tank.

The disadvantage of this element is the greater sensitivity of the product to dirt and the presence of impurities in water. The diaphragm valve will quickly lose its operational properties due to poor quality water in the system. A mechanical cleaning filter will help avoid problems.

There are floatless options for the drain system. The water supply to them is stopped due to the presence of a special chamber shaped like an inverted glass.

Differences in reinforcement based on other characteristics

Depending on the installation location and method of water supply, there are several types of cistern fittings. In particular, we are talking about the upper and lower shut-off valves. The design of the system depends on its location in relation to the drain tank, which is very important to consider for unhindered access to the unit in the event of a breakdown.

The shut-off valves for the upper and lower water supply have different configurations and installation options. In both cases, the valve closes under the influence of a control rod connected to a plastic or foam float. Before using the toilet, fine-tune the float, setting the correct water level in the flush tank. Only in this case can you count on the most efficient operation of the system.

Domestic manufacturers equip their plumbing products with fittings for top water supply. In this case, the shut-off valve for the toilet is located in the side of the tank. Among the disadvantages of this option, one can highlight the high level of noise that is created during the operation of the water supply system. Almost all models of foreign manufacturers are equipped with lower shut-off valves; such products are characterized by low noise.

Material for making toilet flush valves

Expensive models of toilet flush systems are made of bronze or brass. These materials are characterized by strength, reliability, corrosion resistance, and the ability to withstand mechanical and chemical loads. The design can be either simple or complex. Metal filling is found in expensive collectible models, which are produced with a certain stylization.

Most drain valves are made from polymers.

In other cases, bronze and brass can be used in the manufacture of only the fill valve, which makes the shut-off and drain system universal, easy to install, configure, repair, and allows you to replace each unit individually.

Many valve models are made from polymers. The quality of plastic and precision of production affect the cost of the product. The more expensive the fittings, the more reliable and durable the drainage system will be. However, there are high-quality models that have an affordable price.

How to choose the right toilet parts

If elements of the drain system fail, it is important to choose the correct option that will correspond to the factory configuration. The units may differ in the material they are made of. Products made of bronze and brass are considered the highest quality and most durable. However, they are characterized by high cost.

The repair kit for the toilet is selected based on the model of the tank. Important parameters are the location of the inlet, its size, the diameter of the drain opening and the overall dimensions of the device, which must fit freely into the tank. The flush mechanism for a toilet can be represented by a single design or consist of separate (drain and fill) devices. The second option significantly facilitates and simplifies the process of replacing products.

If elements of the drain mechanism break down, the repair kit is selected based on the model of the tank.

When choosing a valve, you should pay attention to the quality of the product. The mechanism must operate under its own weight. It is necessary that all its components are movable, move smoothly and unhindered. There should be no jamming of any kind.

When choosing a drain mechanism, you should carefully inspect the elements. They must have a solid body, free from chips and cracks, and the correct geometric shape, which will contribute to efficient and uninterrupted operation. Spare parts for toilets made from high-quality material have a high cost.

Seals and gaskets should be purchased from silicone. Such products, unlike rubber ones, are characterized by strength, reliability and durability. Elements are checked for compression and bending. They should not be deformed or cracked.

On a note! The best performance and strength properties are provided by sealing elements, in the manufacture of which rubber is added to enhance elasticity.

New mechanism parts must be of high quality, without chips or cracks.

Repair of the flush mechanism for the toilet cistern

If the drain mechanism fails, you can replace it with a new repair kit yourself. Replacing the flush mechanism in the toilet cistern is carried out according to the following algorithm.

The first step is to turn off the water supply. Next, press the drain button to empty the tank. It is carefully removed, which makes it possible to remove the tank lid. Then the water supply hose is disconnected. The nut that secures the filler pipe is unscrewed. You need to remove the part itself from the hole.

On a note! Before changing the flush mechanism in a toilet cistern with bottom water supply, it is recommended to install a small container under the plumbing fixture into which the water that does not go down the drain will drain.

The internal fittings are removed from the tank and unscrewed from the fasteners. Next, unscrew the bolts securing the tank to the toilet bowl. The container is removed. After this, the lower part of the drain system is dismantled and the sealing gaskets are removed. After disassembly is completed, it is necessary to clean the inner surface of the tank and all its openings, remove plaque, debris and lime deposits.

After removing the internal fittings, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts securing the tank and toilet.

Installation of the drain mechanism involves the reverse sequence of work. The lower part of the drain system is inserted into the hole, and sealing gaskets are attached. Next, install the flush cistern on the toilet and secure it with fastening bolts.

Note! If corrosion has formed on the old bolts, the elements should be replaced with new ones.

The internal part of the flush mechanism is installed in the toilet siphon. The fill valve should be inserted into the gap in the bottom or side wall of the tank, securing it with a nut and sealing gaskets. A water supply hose must be connected to the outlet pipe. The water is turned on and the system is checked for functionality.

If all elements are installed correctly and the joints are securely sealed, then there will be no leaks.

The filling valve is inserted into the side wall of the tank or into the bottom.

Toilet button malfunctions

All signs of a malfunction of the toilet flush mechanism button can be classified as follows:

• insufficient volume of water for flushing (full or partial);
• sticking;
• sinking (falling through).

In the first case, we are not talking about how to repair the button, but about adjustment.

Adjustment

The full flush volume is adjusted using a float - its position on the rod relative to the overflow tube ensures the water level in the fully filled tank. The standard recommendation is that the supply should be cut off when the water surface is 15-20 mm below the overflow edge:

1. Setting the float. At the bottom feed valve, the rack rod is disengaged from the float, which is then moved up or down along the guide. The side feed valve is adjusted in a similar way - the only difference is in the relative position of the float and the shut-off valves of the water supply system.
2. Adjusting the flush tank button comes down to moving the overflow tube relative to the “glass” of the push-button mechanism and adjusting its height. To do this, unscrew the fixing nut on the tube, disconnect the rod, move the tube to the required position and tighten the nut. Then, pressing the petals on the glass and moving the guides, the height of the entire mechanism is set. At the final stage, the rod is snapped back onto the overflow tube clamp.

The fittings of a two-level tank also have a small flush float, which must be moved along its own rack guide on the overflow tube. The position of this float determines the volume of water during incomplete flushing.

But if a button gets stuck or sticks, then what to do - adjustment or repair - can only be decided after finding out the cause of the malfunction.

Removing sticking

Button sticking can have different causes and manifestation patterns. To eliminate sticking, you need to get to the fittings. For this:

• shut off the cold water supply to the tank (if there is no separate valve, close the common tap on the riser);
• unscrew the locking ring;
• remove the button from the seat;
• remove the tank lid;
• find out the cause of the sticking.

If the tank, and therefore the fittings, are new, then sticking can occur when the button is pressed “excessively” hard. The reason is a rough surface or burrs on the plastic parts of the fittings, which stop the button and prevent it from returning to its original state. In this case, you just need to clean the problem area.

Another reason for a sticking button may be a misalignment or displacement of the push lever that moves the rod. To restore the operation of the tank, it is necessary to re-adjust and configure the mechanism.

The third reason is accumulated deposits in the button socket (dust, debris, plaque). The problem can be solved by simply cleaning and flushing this working unit.

If the drain stops working due to wear or breakage of any part, then you will need to completely replace the entire mechanism with a new one that matches the model of the tank.

Failure Elimination

One of the common reasons why the button in the toilet cistern sinks (falls through) is the incorrect setting of the mechanism.

For adjustment behavior you need:

• shut off the water supply;
• completely drain the water from the tank;
• remove the button and tank cover;
• dismantle the mechanism;
• adjust the height of the overflow edge relative to the water surface;
• adjust the height of the mechanism, taking into account that the fully pressed button should not touch the overflow tube;
• adjust the floats for full and partial drain.

Another reason for failure is a breakdown of the return spring of the pusher on which the button presses. And in cases where the button assembly is non-separable, the button will need to be replaced.

Replacing the button with a new one

If the push-button assembly fails, there is no need to replace the entire drain valve. The problem can be resolved by replacing the toilet cistern button. But it must be the same model as the broken part. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• remove the faulty unit by disconnecting it from the tank lid;
• check the settings of the drain valve and the float of the shut-off valves on the water supply;
• install a new button, check the operation of the drain device.

If the toilet tank was produced a long time ago, or the model is so rare that it is not possible to find “spare parts” for it, then you will have to completely replace the entire flush valve with a new one that fits its installation dimensions.

Testing the toilet flush system after installation

After installing or repairing the toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button, the system is tested. The first step is to check that there are no visible leaks. To do this, you need to run water through the plumbing fixture several times. Water should not flow into the toilet bowl unnecessarily, and you should also make sure that there are no leaks underneath. If they are detected, it is necessary to fix the fastenings as firmly as possible.

Next, it is checked whether the water level in the tank has reached the required level. If this does not happen, the toilet tank is adjusted. The filling valve should work normally and not stick. You can verify the quality of its operation by applying sharp downward or upward pressure to the mechanism.

Next, you need to evaluate the operation of the system by ear. If there is a hissing, whistling, or other sharp sound, this indicates that the flapper valve is closing. The problem is resolved by lowering or raising the element using a screw, which is driven by a screwdriver.

To ensure normal operation of the system, the water level in the tank is adjusted. The float, which is held in place by a thick wire, should be placed so that it is located 1-2 cm below the edge of the reinforcement. To gain more water, the metal lever needs to be bent in an arc downwards. To reduce the liquid level, the product is bent in the opposite direction.

After installing the drainage system, it must be tested.

If the float lever is made of plastic, its adjustment is carried out by a special screw, which rotates until the float takes the desired position. The optimal level of liquid in the tank is considered to be at which the water will be 3 cm lower than the overflow hole.

The correct position of the buoy indicates that water does not overflow through the system and does not go into the toilet bowl unnecessarily. After adjustment, the lid is installed on the tank and secured with a button.

Main types of shut-off valves for toilets and prices

The design of shut-off valves can be combined or separate, and the first option appeared relatively recently. Separate configuration fixtures require that the toilet flush and shutoff valve be installed separately. Each of these elements operates autonomously, independently of each other.

The shut-off valve is controlled by a float. When the water level in the tank rises, this element blocks the flow of liquid. The main component of the drain assembly is the neck, which is equipped with a mechanical or air valve. The drain is controlled by pressing a pedal, lever, button or key.

Fittings with a separate configuration have one significant advantage. If one of the components fails, it is not necessary to completely replace the insides of the toilet cistern - it is enough to repair or update the damaged area. This design not only simplifies the process of installing and dismantling parts, but also reduces the cost of repairing damage.

Toilet fittings can be for side or bottom water supply

In the latest models of toilets, as well as luxury-class plumbing fixtures, combined fittings are installed, in which the shut-off and drain valves are combined into one design. These components are completely dependent on each other. If the combined valves fail, it will not be possible to replace one of the valves. In the event of a breakdown, you will have to completely dismantle the system and carry out complex repair work.

Important! Installation of the mechanism with the top connection is carried out after the tank is installed in its place. The arrangement of fittings with a lower type of fastening begins before placing the tank.

Buying toilet fittings: prices for products from different manufacturers:

product name	price, rub.
Fittings for toilets "Inkoer"
Side diaphragm valve, 1/2	300
Side float valve, 1/2	500
Side float valve "lux", 1/2	800
Fittings for toilets "Alkaplast"
Side valve	450
Bottom valve	520
Metal threaded side valve	550
Bottom valve with metal thread	610
Geberit toilet fittings
Bottom valve, 3/8 (hole size 16 mm)	1150
Bottom valve 3/8 (hole size 20mm)	1180
Bottom valve 1/2 (hole size 20mm)	1200
Siamp toilet fittings
Side valve 1/2	1600
Side valve 3/8	1800

Characteristics of shut-off valves for a toilet with bottom supply

Bottom-mounted fittings are usually installed in foreign-made toilets. These designs do not create much noise, and therefore they increase the operating comfort of the plumbing fixture. Toilets that have a system with a bottom connection look more stylish than models where the water supply is from above.

The bottom line system consists of the following components:

• a float that regulates the process of supplying liquid to the tank;
• trigger device;
• guide (the float moves along it);
• sealing rings (used to seal the structure during the installation of fittings);
• intake valve.

Foreign-made toilets are equipped with fittings with a bottom type of connection

The principle of operation of shut-off valves for a toilet with a bottom connection is quite simple. This system maintains the required fluid level in the tank. When the container is full, the valve closes the tap and stops the water supply, and after draining, it opens it again.

Related article:

Toilet flush mechanism: operating principle and basics of device repair

Types of internal fittings of the tank. Dismantling, installation and adjustment of the mechanism. Troubleshooting.

There are two types of filler units:

1. Push-button – liquid drains automatically when you press the button.
2. Rod - water is drained in the same mode, but pressing the button alone will not be enough. In this case, the design provides for the presence of a handle, which must first be pulled up and then returned to its original place.

The push-button option is considered more practical, so it is used more often by manufacturers.

Advantages of shut-off valves for the toilet cistern:

• high degree of reliability;
• there is rarely a need for repairs;
• allows you to hide the inlet hose;
• works silently;
• long service life.

Bottom line fittings consist of a float, release device, guide, O-rings and inlet valve

This version of the fittings is not without its drawbacks. Installation of the system is very complicated. If a breakdown occurs, it is easier to replace the drain tank fittings than to repair its individual parts.

Note! For the push-button mechanism to work properly, the release button should not protrude above the surface of the structure. The optimal opening size is 40 mm. This value is applicable for round mechanisms. Some toilet models have rectangular or oval buttons.

Characteristics of shut-off valves for a cistern with side connections

In domestically produced plumbing fixtures, a system with a top (side) connection is mainly installed. In this case, the supply hose is not attached to the bottom of the container, but to the side, and it should be located above the liquid level in the filled tank.

The main components of the fittings for a toilet cistern with side supply:

• inlet valve supplying water;
• float (connected to the inlet valve using a lever);
• trigger mechanism;
• a lever designed to control the trigger mechanism.

Domestic toilets are made with side connections

The release mechanism of side-mounted fittings can be push-button or rod-type.

Operating principle of toilet fittings with side connections:

1. After pressing the button, a draft is generated that opens the drain valve.
2. When draining occurs, the fluid supply to the drain mechanism is shut off.
3. When the water in the tank reaches the minimum limit, the release mechanism is activated, which closes the drain.
4. Then the float hole opens.
5. The vertically located valve returns to its place and closes the passage through which the descent is carried out.
6. When the liquid level in the tank decreases, the float drops along with the water. As a result, a passage opens for filling the container.
7. When the amount of liquid in the tank reaches the maximum level, the float valve closes and the flow of water stops.

Advantages of lateral reinforcement:

• simple design that can be easily repaired and partially replaced;
• there is no need to use strong seals in the area where the inlet hose connects to the tank;
• low price.

The only disadvantages of such a system include the noise that appears when water enters the system.

The advantages of fittings with side connections are simplicity of design and low price.

How to install shut-off valves: photos and step-by-step guide

You can install fittings in a plumbing fixture yourself, without the help of specialists. Professional services, if you need to dismantle the fittings and install new ones in their place, will cost about 800 rubles.

To work you will need the following tools:

• pliers;
• rubber fuma;
• a set of keys (adjustable and open-end);
• screwdriver;
• water tap;
• gaskets of the appropriate size.

Helpful advice! It is advisable to install branded fittings in the toilet. Such designs are fully compatible with plumbing fixtures.

At the first stage, it is necessary to secure the base of the drain assembly in the tank. This must be done so that the part fits tightly to the outlet hole. To do this, a sealing material (rubber gasket) is placed between the bottom of the tank and the base of the drain assembly. After this, the container can be installed on the toilet. A thick rubber ring must be placed between these components of the plumbing fixture. This is necessary to ensure that the surfaces do not touch each other. The tank can then be secured to the toilet using bolted connections.

To install shut-off valves you will need pliers, a set of keys, a screwdriver and gaskets

If the plumbing fixture has a bottom connection, then the toilet tank fittings should be installed before the tank is installed. When using a system of this type, you must make sure that the rubber gaskets are securely fastened, otherwise leakage is inevitable.

If lateral fittings are to be installed, there is no need to use sealing material, since the supply line is located above the water. Such a system can be installed after the tank has been installed. To do this, you need to insert the tube into the corresponding hole in the container and secure it with nuts on both sides.

Then the flexible hose is connected to the fitting of the water riser. You also need to install a tap, which will be used in the future during repairs so that you can shut off the access of liquid to the toilet. Modern hoses have nut-and-spacer clamps. Thanks to them, the connection is strong and reliable.

At the next stage, the position of the float is adjusted so that the maximum water level does not reach the edge of the container by 15 cm. All that remains is to organize the drainage system. To do this, you need to insert the top part into the hole on the cover and secure it.

At the last stage of installation work, the position of the float is adjusted

Basic problems with toilet shut-off valves

The float fails more often than other parts. If there are problems with the operation of a plumbing fixture, this element should be checked first.

The most common problems:

• During operation, the float became distorted;
• under the influence of mechanical loads the membrane has worn out;
• the shut-off valve does not close the hole well and allows liquid to pass through;
• There is a hole in the float.

If a part is severely damaged or worn, it should be replaced. The price of a toilet float is about 300-400 rubles. Before you begin the repair, you need to find out how the toilet lid is secured. When removed, it can easily be broken, in which case you will have to replace the entire tank.

Helpful advice! Most often, to fix the problem, it is enough to change the bend of the float or adjust its fixation, so first of all it is worth inspecting its fastening.

To eliminate such a problem as float skew, it is enough to change the bend or adjust its fixation

If the problem is the shutoff valve, it will need to be replaced. The list of actions in this case will be as follows:

1. Empty the reservoir (drain all liquid).
2. Turn off the water supply valve.
3. Disconnect the lever.
4. Remove the broken valve.
5. Install a new one in its place and secure it.
6. Adjust the position of the float.

Possible system malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

Studying the principle of operation of the toilet will help identify possible malfunctions and eliminate them. If the overflow control does not work, you need to find the reasons that caused the damage to the system. The most common may lie in the misalignment of the lever or rocker arm that holds the float. It must be aligned, which will ensure the correct movement of the float and the restoration of the system.

For toilet flush systems with a membrane valve, when the element moves to the upper position, the hole may remain open. In this case, the position of the membrane is adjusted or replaced. The reason for the failure of the overflow control system may be perforation of the float with water ingress. This problem requires a complete replacement of the element. If the above operations do not resolve the malfunction, it is necessary to replace the inlet valve.

There are many reasons for a malfunctioning tank drain system.

A leak at the fill valve occurs primarily as a result of wear on the sealing gasket. In the early stages, the problem can be eliminated by tightening the fastening nut. In advanced cases, you will need to replace the gasket.

If the drain button does not work, the cause may be a misalignment of the lever that connects it to the drain valve. Such a malfunction may occur due to the breakdown of plastic elements of the internal fittings. In this case, replacement of the drain mechanism is required.

During the initial operation of the tank, problems may arise as a result of incorrect adjustment of the system. To ensure its functionality, it is necessary to select the height of the drain cup corresponding to the height of the tank, fixing it in the correct position.

If weak pressure is observed while filling the tank at normal pressure in the general system, the water supply hose is dismantled, cleaned, and lime deposits that have blocked the lumen are removed. If cleaning cannot be done, the hose is replaced with a new one.

A misaligned lever may cause the button to not operate.

If the problem is not resolved, you need to inspect the intake valve and check its functionality. To do this, open it, clean the inner chamber and adjust the overflow system. If the problem persists, the valve must be replaced.

Installation

It is quite possible to carry out the installation yourself. However, it should be taken into account that this process is characterized by increased complexity when compared with toilets with side connections, for example.

One way or another, the sequence of your actions should be as follows:

1. Each product has its own technical passport, which contains detailed installation instructions. Check it out.
2. Carefully examine everything that came with the toilet. As a rule, manufacturers provide the necessary fasteners and connecting elements.
3. Install the lower part of the toilet, fixing it in the desired place and position. Make sure that the pipes are long enough and the liner will reach its place.
4. Now the tank is mounted. It is at this stage that the internal structure needs to be installed.
5. As practice shows, the fill valve is installed first, and when connecting the tank. To do this you will need sealed rubber gaskets and adapters.
6. In some cases, an inlet valve is installed simultaneously with the fill valve. But this depends directly on the selected toilet model.
7. Assembling the remaining elements is not difficult if you have instructions at hand. Toilets are often unique in their design, so we cannot give general advice on assembly.
8. Assemble all structural elements exclusively by hand; no tools are required. At the same time, apply enough force to ensure that the connections are strong.

Popular manufacturers of toilet cistern flush devices

One of the most famous manufacturers of plumbing products and spare parts for them is the Czech company Alka Plast. It produces high-quality, functional and durable products at an affordable price. A popular universal model is the AlkaPlast A2000 drain mechanism with a stop button function. The device is suitable for replacing the existing mechanism in ceramic tanks. Thanks to the special design, the height of the product can be adjusted within the range of 310-405 mm (depending on the height of the tank).

The device is equipped with a stop function button, which starts draining the water when pressed for the first time and stops it when pressed again. The mechanism is made of ABS plastic, which is resistant to abrasion and various types of loads. You can buy a drainage device for 850 rubles.

The Alka Plast A08A dual-flush drain mechanism has two modes of water release with a volume of 3 and 6 liters. The design of the device allows you to adjust the height of the drain mechanism within the range of 315-450 mm. The product is made of ABS plastic. The cost of the device is 1.1 thousand rubles.

The Czech company Alka Plast produces high-quality and durable drainage devices.

Another equally popular manufacturer of toilet flush mechanisms is the Swiss company Geberit. The products of the global manufacturer are of high quality. The company is constantly improving its manufacturing methods for sanitary ware, introducing technological innovations.

Among the popular models of drainage systems, one can highlight the Geberit Impuls Basic 230 dual-flush mechanism, equipped with a chrome button. The device is made of durable high-pressure plastic, which increases its technical and operational properties. You can buy a flush mechanism for a Geberit toilet for 2.3 thousand rubles.

A high-quality model is the Geberit Impuls Type 290 drain mechanism, designed for two operating modes - drain for 3 and 6 liters. The device is intended for tanks with a height of 300-450 mm. The water supply can be carried out both from the side and from below. The cost of the Geberit drain mechanism is 2.8 thousand rubles.

The drain mechanism is a simple design. Having understood the principle of its operation and following the above tips, you can independently install, adjust and repair the device without completely replacing the toilet cistern.