How to replace a toilet: step-by-step instructions on how to replace a toilet with your own hands

Plumbing in the bathroom breaks down quite often. There may be many reasons for this, but the outcome is always the same - the equipment must be replaced. This is where the main question arises: how to replace a toilet with your own hands efficiently and without unnecessary movements?

Good preparation is the key to successful work. Get the necessary set of tools, related materials and detailed instructions for beginners. By following the recommendations outlined in the article and taking into account possible mistakes, you will be able to cope with replacing the toilet yourself.

System design

The supply and discharge pipes in any apartment are almost always identical; the wiring diagram differs only in the installation method (hidden or riser). This difference is important during major repairs; it is enough to know where the shut-off valves are located. The common sewer riser in any project runs through the apartment, perhaps in a niche in the kitchen, but most often in the bathroom. To drain liquid, a tee is often installed in the transit pipe at a level just above the floor, connecting the corrugated toilet drain to the toilet itself. It is not cut off in any way and a house discharge line, assembled from pipes and tees according to the number of devices, comes to it.

Interior styles

Decorating a small bathroom in any style direction will not be particularly difficult. It is important to pay attention to the toilet model and finishing materials, which may differ in color, structure and shape.

Toilet in Khrushchev in the style of minimalism

A small toilet in a modern minimalist direction is an example of laconic design. There are white, gray, beige finishing tones, modern built-in plumbing, and decor is almost completely rejected.

Toilet in Khrushchev-era loft style

Decorating the walls of a loft-style toilet will not be complete without brickwork and concrete, which can successfully imitate facing materials such as tiles, wallpaper, and PVC panels.

Toilet in Khrushchev in retro style

To decorate a toilet in a retro style, it is better to use two “ancient” types of finishing materials: tiles and paint. The lower part of the walls is tiled first, and the upper part is second. It is better to leave the toilet tank in plain sight, and the decorations will be paintings, posters, black and white photos.

Toilet in Khrushchev in Provence style

The light, elegant Provence style involves light tones of decoration with prints, checkered or polka dot patterns. Preference is given to matte surfaces, so it is better to choose appropriate tiles or paint the walls. A special atmosphere will be created by wicker elements of furniture and decor.

Dismantling the toilet

If you make a gross mistake during disassembly and damage the tee of the general system, the consequences will be irreversible: all the drains from the upper floors will end up in the apartment. Caution is especially important for cast iron pipelines. The carbon metal is very fragile and an incorrectly calculated blow will crumble the fanina. If you cannot carefully knock the stuffing out of the socket, it is better to break the old toilet bowl and then use a thin punch to smoothly release the seat. With polyethylene things are simpler. The plastic is quite durable, the joints are sealed with rubber rings and the bowl pipe can be easily pulled out. Here a snag may arise in the anchors - they usually rust and are almost impossible to unscrew. The solution in such a situation is to use brute force. The water supply pipes are disconnected from the tank using a flexible liner by unscrewing the nut, and the tank along with the bowl is taken to a landfill.

Installation

At first glance, it may seem that installing a toilet is a very complicated process. But in reality, everything is simpler than that.

The main thing is to follow the step-by-step instructions and work on a flat, straight surface.

For the upcoming work, you need to prepare the appropriate tool:

• perforator;
• Boer;
• adjustable wrench;
• spanners;
• hammer;
• sealant;
• screwdrivers;
• roulette;
• flexible hose.

Special attention will need to be paid to the drain tank. Some models are provided to the consumer with an assembled drain system, others disassembled. This means that this system will also have to be assembled independently.

After assembly, it is necessary to double-check the reliability of the fastenings of the drain system, and only then install it in the tank.

On the floor

Installation of floor-standing toilets is much easier than installation of wall-mounted structures. The main thing is that the floor is level. However, this characteristic is not important for all types of flooring. For example, tiles do not require additional leveling, because they are initially laid out level.

If the floor tiles turn out to be uneven, you will have to install the toilet using choppers and screws. However, this feature of the floor today is found only in houses of old construction. In modern residential complexes, plumbing fixtures are installed during rough finishing. And the new residents are already making repairs to their liking.

Only a few are ready to remove fixed toilets, which is why they design the floor taking into account the existing plumbing.

In “Khrushchev-era” houses, there is a small wooden plank under the toilet that should be removed. Instead, you should pour quick-drying cement. The remaining voids are covered with sealant.

When installing plumbing equipment, it is important to clear the drain from blockages.

You will need to install a shut-off valve on the water pipe. Then you can connect the drain to the sewer. There are several options for this.

• The connection point between the bowl and the sewer is fixed with silicone sealant. A thick layer of this mass provides protection from moisture. To connect the bowl to the cast iron pipe, you should use a transition collar, onto which a large layer of sealant is also applied. Before these manipulations, you should thoroughly wipe the pipe so that there are no small specks and grains of sand in the sealed layer.
• The second method is a corrugated cuff. Only this connection method has one important nuance. The toilet cannot be placed close to the socket. This method is more often used in toilet rooms with a large area.

Having become familiar with the intricacies of connecting the floor structure of the toilet to the sewer, you can begin to study their fixation. And first of all, the method of fastening to dowels will be considered.

• The plumbing fixture must be tried on according to the intended location. It is worth checking the angle of inclination and height of the sewer when it coincides with the neck of the plumbing fixture. Even the slightest discrepancy must be corrected. Next, the area of ​​the seat is outlined with a marker.
• The next stage is creating markup. To do this, you need to find the central axis. Based on the axis indicator, the bowl is installed. The approximate distance from the sewer socket is 15-16 cm. After which you can make marks for the holes.
• Next comes the preparation of fasteners. To do this, the toilet bowl must be moved to the side. Drill holes in the floor. Clear prepared holes of debris. Fill them with silicone and insert the dowels.
• The last step is twisting. A silicone or rubber gasket is squeezed out onto the floor along the contour of the seat. The toilet bowl is returned to its place, adjusted according to the markings of the fasteners, and then pressed to the floor. Bushings are inserted into the mounting holes, and the screws are carefully tightened. Plugs are placed on top of them, completing the beauty of the plumbing fixture. The remaining silicone that has come out from under the bowl seat is removed with a rubber spatula.

Recently, it has become popular to mount toilet bowls to the floor using special adhesives. For example, silicone glue, sealant or epoxy resin. However, this method can only be used on smooth surfaces.

• First of all, you need to place the toilet bowl in the desired place and outline the outline with a simple pencil.
• Then the bowl is moved aside and the preparation of the floor covering begins. It is necessary to remove debris, all grains of sand and specks from the surface. To make the adhesion tighter, it is necessary to roughen the base under the bowl. It is enough to use sandpaper. Then the floor must be degreased, and not just with pharmaceutical alcohol, but with acetone or solvent.
• The adhesive composition itself is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. The finished mass is applied to the bottom of the bowl and inside the outline made with a pencil. The layers should not be large. And after applying the adhesive, the bowl must be placed in the chosen place and pressed lightly.
• Using the toilet, moving it or performing any other manipulations with the bowl for 12 hours after installation is strictly prohibited.

The method of attaching a toilet to taffeta is used in toilet rooms with wood flooring. Although many experts use taffeta to install the toilet on any surface.

• Before you begin installation, you need to prepare the taffeta. To do this, take a board 2.8-3.2 cm thick and cut out a blank of the required size. After this, it must be treated with drying oil. For a more durable fixation, the taffeta is secured with anchors.
• A recess is made in the place where the toilet will stand. Its dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the taffeta. The excavation is filled with cement mass. Taffeta is laid on top so that the ends of the anchors enter the cement and is pressed down lightly. A correct installation of taffeta is indicated by the uniform level of the plank with the floor.
• After the cement mass has dried, you can install the toilet. The bowl is carefully placed on the taffeta and secured with screws pre-treated with graphite. To prevent the ceramics from acquiring defects, rubber gaskets should be placed under the screw heads.

After installing the toilet bowl, you can proceed to the next installation steps.

• The tank must be placed on the toilet bowl and secured with the fastening screws included in the sanitary ware kit. It is important to remember the O-ring that must be present between the bowl and the tank.
• Then the flexible line is connected. It is better that the hose is long. Thanks to this, there will be no inconvenience during the water connection process. After twisting the hose, you need to check the strength of its fastening. But even when tightening, there is no need to be overzealous.
• The next stage is the installation of components, namely the toilet lid and the water release button. The process of installing them is quite simple, but if you have any questions, you can look at the instructions.
• After connecting the system, do a test drain. After which you should check all connecting elements for leaks.
• The last step is to set up the locking mechanism.

On the wall

Wall-mounted toilets are installed both in private houses and in apartments. At the same time, the method of connecting to communications is quite simple. Even if the toilet design has a vertical outlet.

• First you need to assemble the installation. Be sure to follow the instructions. One wrong connection can lead to unpleasant consequences.
• Then the upper supports are installed. In appearance they are similar to rods. A screwdriver and a socket wrench will help you adjust them.
• Next, the lower support is installed. They also resemble the image of plates.
• The assembled installation is applied to the wall and leveled using a bubble level.
• There is a mark on the installation frame that can be raised or lowered to the required height. According to the standard, this is 1 meter.
• Now you can fix the installation frame. To work, you will need a marker, which is used to make marks at the fastening points. At the marked points, holes are made into which the dowel body is pushed. Then the fastener itself is installed, pre-lubricated with sealant.
• The next step is to install the pipe and coupling in the appropriate places in the assembled installation.
• Metal rods are mounted in the designated slots of the installation. A silicone seal is stretched over the top.
• The sewer pipe is pulled out to a suitable distance and fixed with brackets.
• The next stage is connecting the water supply to the tank. To do this, you need to lift the tank lid and remove the plug from the side. A pipe is inserted into the opened hole. To secure it firmly, you must use a cover nut. It is not recommended to tighten it with force, otherwise an unnoticeable crack may occur, which, after connecting the toilet, will leak.
• Then a tee is attached to the inside of the tank, to which you need to connect a pipe and a flexible hose.
• The installation’s fittings itself are hidden under a false wall, the material of which tolerates a constant humid environment.
• After finishing the wall, you can mount the toilet bowl. It is hung on pins and carefully pushed towards the sewer pipe.
• After installation, a test run of the toilet is performed and the water is initially drained. This way, you can check the strength of the fasteners for leaks.

Toilet replacement

There are technical parameters that should be taken into account when choosing a new toilet. They are related to the position of the liner and the material of the sewer pipe. The threaded nipple is either on the right or left, and changing its position is quite difficult. The material used to make the sewer system affects the position of the siphon outlet, which can be straight (parallel to the floor) or oblique (at 45 degrees relative to the same surface). Cast iron does not tolerate mechanical stress; the socket cannot be turned. It is this fact that is the reason for purchasing a model with exactly the same release as the old device.

Preliminary calculations

Replacing old plumbing fixtures occurs not only because of their breakdown, the appearance of a crack in the body, but also because of its unattractive appearance. In the latter case, the toilet does not fit into the interior of the bathroom and spoils the image of the home. Even if the device is in good working order, it is better to replace it, although this requires additional funds.

Before going to the store for a new toilet, you need to decide on its dimensions and the scale of work. A cracked tank can easily be replaced with a new product, but in some cases the entire structure needs to be replaced. According to building regulations, at least 20 centimeters are left between the enclosing structures in the bathroom and the side walls of the plumbing fixtures.

New plumbing fixtures must have an attractive appearance, perform the assigned functions and correspond to the dimensions of the toilet. The main distinguishing feature of toilets is not only their design, but also the shape of the neck. Through this pipe the device will be connected to the sewer system.

There are several types of equipment on the plumbing market, which differ in the shape of the neck:

• vertical;
• oblique models;
• with a straight neck oriented at an angle of 90 degrees.

Each of these models has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the most popular are products with oblique and straight outlets due to their convenience and functionality. Replacing a toilet in a Khrushchev-era building with a cast-iron pipe should begin with preliminary measurements of the bathroom. Based on these parameters, a person selects the dimensions of the device.

When placing the structure in the toilet, you need to consider some rules:

• the equipment must be installed at a distance of no less than 60 centimeters from the front door;
• leave 20 or more centimeters between the side walls of the room and the toilet.

If these replacement requirements are met, the apartment owner will receive the maximum level of comfort in the bathroom. Before purchasing a product, familiarize yourself with the design features of the old and new device. The drain hole in such products can be located in different places.

How to install a toilet?

The base of the bowl is placed on the prepared surface in two approaches. The device is tried on for the first time. The unit is assembled without seals in the adapters. The location for anchor holes cannot always be marked through the mounting lugs. In this case, a mark is made on the side, opposite the holes. Then the toilet is moved away, holes for the anchors are drilled using a hammer drill or a drill and polyethylene dowels are inserted. At the next stage, all actions are repeated again, and the device is placed along the contour mark so that the fastening bolts fall through the holes into the plastic dowels. The fastenings are tightened, but without fanaticism, with a sense of proportion. The installation of the toilet is complete, all that remains is to equip the flushing unit with the parts suggested by the manufacturer.

Preparing for installation

First, all debris, remains of concrete and ceramics are removed from the bathroom. After this, the floor is leveled using a cement screed. It must gain strength before installing the toilet. This requires 1-2 weeks. You can screw fasteners into the frozen screed that will secure the plumbing fixture.

The sewer drain area is cleared of salt deposits, rust, and debris. This is necessary so that the tee or corrugation fits tightly in the outlet channel. A tap is installed in the place where the tank will be connected to the water supply.

Toilet tank

It is impossible to describe in detail and clearly how to replace a toilet cistern because the flush system in the toilet cistern has an original set of drain fittings, a flow regulator, and is intuitive: gaskets of different diameters are suitable only for the intended sealing areas. Replacement of the drain tank fittings is carried out in the event of a breakdown and the impossibility of normal functioning of the system. As a rule, the largest gasket is placed between the tank and the bowl shelf, the fasteners are located on the sides, and two pairs of conical and flat washers go to the bolts. The central drain valve socket with holders, the valve itself with a handle, and a water supply float regulator with a nipple are first installed in the tank. Both threads are connected by a reinforced hose with nuts. Thus, to perform the work, a plumber needs:

1. hammer drill with drill 10
2. silicone tube
3. universal key

Whether you install a toilet yourself or still seek professional help and find out how much it costs to replace a toilet is entirely up to you.

Release forms for flushing

Oblique drainage is the best option of all existing ones. Sewer structures for such models can be found in any city high-rise building that was put into operation from the 60s to the 90s and beyond. Installing and reinstalling such a toilet yourself is as easy as shelling pears! Even making a mistake in the process is not scary, because it will probably be easily corrected.

Vertical drain. These structures are installed, as a rule, in “Stalinka” houses, which were actively built in Russia until the mid-twentieth century. Structurally, such a sewer system is quite complex, since the socket is installed directly under the base of the toilet bowl, and the main pipe is lowered into the ceiling to connect to the neighbor’s riser. Performing a vertical descent yourself is a problem, so it is better to invite a specialist.

Horizontal drain. A modern option, which is a little more difficult to handle on your own than with an “oblique drain,” but still possible.

Self-installation or replacement of a toilet involves several work steps that must be performed sequentially. And first of all, if we are talking about replacing plumbing, you need to get rid of the old equipment.

Step-by-step photo report of repairing a toilet in Khrushchev with your own hands (20 photos)

The most difficult stage is dismantling the cast iron drain from the fan pipe. In this case, there is a double drain, for the bathtub and for the toilet...

In Soviet times, the joints of the drain pipes were sealed with sulfur (!!!) In order to pull out the drain and pick out the sulfur, it took me 5 hours, a sledgehammer, a knife, a blowtorch and a vacuum cleaner. When burning sulfur from a joint there is a risk of suffocation...

But still I burned it out and knocked it out. Replaced it with plastic with a rubber adapter and put it on sealant...

The floor required pouring a fresh screed, which took three (!!!) days to dry, but I chose the wrong material for the screed, so be careful when choosing a mixture!

In the photo, the floor is primed and covered with mesh for reinforcement.

The screed has dried, we try on the central tile and the toilet, measure everything, calculate it, draw it...

It turned out to be far from the wall, but there was no other way, the drain for the bathtub left no room, I couldn’t replay it, although I think it was quite possible.

Next, we prime the walls and floor with a primer with the addition of sand with strong adhesion, everything is blue... (To be honest, I bought the advertising in the store and decided to try it.)

I hope the blue miracle primer will stick to the walls. It was my first time working with tiles, I had a hard time with the tile cutter - I chipped and broke a lot of tiles until I bought a diamond blade for the grinder, and things started going well.

The only downside to sawing with a grinder was an incredible amount of clay dust; it was all over the apartment and took a very long time to wash out.

As it turned out, laying tiles is not at all difficult, the main thing is to dilute the adhesive correctly with water, have a spatula with the required tooth height and, of course, buy crosses, and lay them... And, yes, another small level - check whether the tiles lie level relative to each other.

Here you can see how the tiles lay on the floor, there are some shortcomings, but overall they are smooth.

Inspired by the speed and ease of laying the floor, I thought that it would be the same with the walls. I can’t say that it took a lot of time, but the vertical installation took 4 days (but I can do it for the first time...), but here the tiles are smaller, the level must be kept more strictly, and I want it to be beautiful. By the way, professional repair of a toilet 1.6 sq.m. It can be done in 4 days, but the price will be much higher.

There are different opinions about whether you should do the walls first and the floor last, or vice versa, but it seemed logical to me to practice on the floor, and I was right.

And when I laid the tiles on the walls and covered the floor with newspaper, everything turned out fine.

After laying, I sanded all the seams - it’s also not difficult, the main thing is to align everything clearly.

The dilemma remains what to do with the front wall, because... There was a lot of space left behind the toilet and above it, so it was decided to install shelves. But the question is: how to close them?

I decided to install roller shutters (like in this black and white toilet of 1 sq.m.). I made it to order, installed it myself, 160x70 cm price 4000 rubles. Installation is extremely easy and quick, I installed it in an hour.

This is in the process of installation...

These are shelves, I didn’t bother - I hung wallpaper to match on the front wall, one thing is not visible.

It turned out like this! The ceiling was made of plastic panels, with two LED lamps, they don’t consume electricity!

Something like an estimate. Prices are indicated in rubles, in February 2014.

As a result, the cost of repairing the toilet could have been less, but due to inexperience it turned out to be so much. For example, I bought grout for joints for 1,200 rubles. One can of grey, one of white and one of green. I bought another one in the wrong color and couldn’t return it to the store. Total four cans for 264 rubles = 1056 rubles. Plus a sponge and spatula. There is still a lot of grout left - this is, for example, where you could save money.