Troubleshooting and repairing a toilet valve, practical advice

  • Toilet cistern: what is included in it
  • Tools for work
  • Inlet valve: its operation, malfunctions and repairs
  • The toilet is leaking: what to do?
  • Float valve: types of malfunctions and how to eliminate them

Any, even the highest quality plumbing items are subject to breakdowns. The toilet does not escape this fate either. The main problem that toilets are prone to is the breakdown of the flush tank. How to repair a toilet valve correctly? This will be discussed in this article.

Purpose

  • regulates the flow of water into the tank to a certain level,
  • releases water into the toilet when the flush is pressed,
  • ensures the presence of a constant amount of liquid during pressure changes in the water supply.

The valve operates due to a decrease in water pressure, which flows into the tank with the simultaneous rise of the float. When a critical level is reached, the lever closes the valve and the liquid stops flowing into the tank.

Classification

Intake mechanisms can be divided into groups according to three criteria:

  • material composition,
  • location,
  • type of construction.

By material

  • Brass or bronze . Products made from these alloys are practical, durable, reliable and completely resistant to corrosion. But such metal valves are quite expensive.
  • Plastic . Plastic products are very popular because, along with their long service life, they are quite inexpensive.

By location

  • With bottom liner. Valves with this connection are located at the bottom of the tank. With this method, water intake occurs completely silently. Also, the lower location allows you to hide the inlet hose and free up the space in the toilet room from unnecessary fittings.

  • With side liner. Valves with this connection are located, respectively, on the right or left side of the tank. This design is the simplest, which has a positive effect on its service life.

You need to select inlet units depending on the design of the toilet cistern. Also, when choosing, you must adhere to the following rules:

  • The product package must include the valve itself, the float, O-rings and a fixing nut.
  • O-rings must be elastic, correct in shape and free from defects.
  • The plastic element must not have visible scratches or nicks.
  • The movement of the float should occur smoothly, without sudden jumps.

By type of design

Once upon a time, valves were ball valves; the device looked like a ball, which was used in all tanks. The modern device is called an inlet device, since it has no resemblance to the design of ball mechanisms, but is used together with a float. There are several types of float devices for the toilet tank:

  • Croydon valves consist of a shell, a float with a lever and a piston with a seat. In this mechanism, the movement of the lever is perpendicular to the action of the piston. This system is used in old tanks and has a fairly low price.
  • The piston ones are equipped with a forked pin with a lever axis. Here, the water is adjusted by horizontally lifting the lever, which moves the piston, at the end of which there is a special seal that comes into contact with the seat and blocks the flow of liquid. This is a fairly common model and is included in the middle price category.
  • Diaphragm valves have a rubber or silicone membrane instead of a gasket, which moves when the piston moves. This is the latest device, which is used only in the latest models of toilets. The advantages of this valve include fast water intake, instant shut-off of liquid intake and, depending on the quality of the fittings, silent filling of the tank. Among the disadvantages, one should take into account the presence of a constant water pressure in the system (0.05-0.1 MPa) and the purity of the liquid, since if the membrane is damaged, it is impossible to replace it on your own. In this case, you will have to purchase the entire intake mechanism.

Drain tank - internal structure

In the process of improvement, many designs of these products were developed and used. Based on location, drain tanks can be classified as follows:

  1. Upper - located at a height of approximately one and a half meters above the toilet bowl, water is supplied through a pipe after acting on the hanging handle. By pulling it, the drain valve is opened, and a portion of water flows into the bowl.

  1. Hidden. The container is placed in a niche, which is arranged in the wall of the room. With this option, the start button is located on the vertical plane of the partition (door). They are usually made of plastic.

  1. The compact tank is attached directly to the toilet bowl. For this purpose, it has a special shelf with holes. Fastening is done with screw parts; for earthenware products they are made of plastic.

Toilet tanks can be made from various materials:

  1. Cast iron. Castings made from this material are the original method of manufacturing toilet cisterns. Currently, their use is not relevant, but the demand still remains, which is why they are still produced. Cast iron products are often decorated with decorative cast elements. The material itself is durable and reliable. (See photo 2.)
  2. Ceramics. The most popular material for the production of sanitary ware at present. The products are quite durable with a clean, smooth surface that is easy to wash and clean. It is not recommended to use powders and pastes with abrasives for this.

  1. Plastic. These plumbing fixtures are produced by stamping from various polymers. The advantage is high manufacturing precision, when mechanical modification is practically not required.

Products made from polymer materials are used, as a rule, for hidden installation, so their width is smaller than that of products from other materials.

Possible malfunctions and their elimination

Before you understand the possible reasons for the breakdown of the fill valve, you need to turn off the tap of the water supply system, open the tank lid and drain the remaining water from the tank. If necessary, remove the device itself.

No water filling the tank

  • Reason #1: clogged holes. In this case, you should disassemble the device, clean and rinse its elements.
  • Reason #2: low water pressure or surges. In this problem, it is necessary to take into account that with a weak flow of water and a high position of the tank, the liquid will not approach the filling chamber, the float will float up, but the water will not shut off. You can try to increase the inlet holes by 3 mm, and in case of constant surge pressure it is better to purchase a rod valve.

Related article: Do-it-yourself toilet repair

Constant water flowing into the toilet

  • Reason #1: float misalignment. The repair consists only of putting the intake valve back in place.
  • Reason No. 2: violation of the tightness of the gasket (damage to the membrane or rod). In this case, a complete replacement of the mechanism is necessary.

Noisy collection of water into the tank

  • Reason #1: water muffler disconnected. To correct the situation, you should adjust the muffler to a special fitting.

How to diagnose problems?

If the flush tank is faulty, it quickly becomes obvious: water either leaks into the toilet bowl or begins to drip onto the floor. Sometimes it happens that the container does not fill.

No matter how cutting-edge and complex the design of the tank, breakdowns occur in the same way in all models.

External leaks are not always immediately visible. It happens that water drips out for weeks, but its amount is so small that the damp areas are not noticeable. Then the leak can be identified by the appearance of red spots and streaks of rust.

If they are, it is worth disassembling the tank and establishing the cause of the breakdown.


If there is no coarse filter, dirt and rust particles constantly enter the tank. They accumulate in the container and can damage the internal mechanisms of the structure and cause breakdown

Normally, the tank is filled to a predetermined level, and the rubber bulb is pressed to the drain hole, reliably closes it and is held in this position by water pressure. When you press the release mechanism, this bulb rises and opens the drain hole.

The rubber bulb must be constantly filled with air. To prevent water from getting into it, the design includes a special guide tube. It ensures the correct position of the pear in the “saddle”.

If the integrity of the bulb or tube itself is compromised, the mechanism fails.


This is what the rubber bulb of the tank should look like if it is in working order. It should remain elastic and fit well to the saddle.

The first thing to do after disassembling the tank is to inspect the bulb. If it has lost its elasticity and cracked, then this is where the cause of the leak lies. Worn rubber cannot cover the drain hole well; water leaks into cracks and gaps.

Rubber products of this type cannot be repaired, so the bulb just needs to be replaced.

If everything is fine with it, you need to make sure that no particles of dirt and rust get under the rubber, which can also interfere with the normal operation of the pear.


There are cases when the leakage problem can be solved by simply cleaning the tank. If it turns out that dirt has accumulated under the rubber bulb, it can be removed with a regular sponge. Often this is enough to restore normal operation. For preventative purposes, it also makes sense to wipe the walls of the container with a rag and remove plaque.

If the bulb is in order, then you should continue to inspect the toilet tank in search of the cause of the leak.

The tank does not fill if:

  • the supply hose is faulty;
  • The inlet valve of the float mechanism is worn out.

Water may leak out if:

  • the gasket between the tank and the toilet is worn out;
  • A leak has appeared at the installation site of the connecting screws.

Internal leaks occur when:

  • the overflow tube is not adjusted;
  • valve is faulty;
  • The float has failed.

All these components should be carefully checked and damaged parts repaired, adjusted or replaced. How to disassemble the tank and find these elements is shown in the video:

Tank fittings, Inlet mechanisms, Valves

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Related article: Toilet valve

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Toilet inlet valve repair

Reasons for repairing a toilet inlet valve

We are tired of buying all the fittings for the flush tank because of a malfunction of just a small rubber band in the inlet valve of the toilet flush tank. In addition, different designs of toilet valves have various disadvantages. Therefore, we decided to settle on the most optimal model in terms of price/quality criteria and repair the toilet inlet valve of this model on our own. Which turned out to be very simple and effective thanks to the video from Alexander Yuryevich presented at the very bottom of the article.

Cheap or expensive toilet inlet valve - which is better?

We bought various inlet valves for the toilet cistern, both according to the design and material from which the valve is made, and at price. We bought both cheap and expensive ones. Expensive valves failed in the same way as cheap ones within 3 to 5 months. In addition, some valves, both cheap and expensive, immediately leaked or did not close, so they had to be modified.

especially need to pay attention to the fact that many valves close with a noise reminiscent of a whistle, crackling noise, the noise of a running tractor, or, even worse, the sound of a water hammer, which is heard in the kitchen and spreads throughout the water supply of your apartment building. This is especially pleasant for your neighbors to listen to at night, and for you too.

Therefore, before buying toilet fittings, read reviews of the inlet and outlet valves of the toilet cistern. For example, on the website of the Leroy Merlin store.

Normal toilet inlet valve

Having extensive experience in installing and repairing toilets both in a private home and in comfortable apartments, we can offer you to choose one of the options for cheap toilet cistern valves - universal fittings with a side or bottom supply WC AB-63.3

Toilet cistern valve with bottom supply WC AB-63.3

Toilet cistern valve - fittings with side supply WC AB-63.3

Installed on any toilet cistern design, both Soviet/Russian and imported. It does not make noise when drawing water, and does not knock or slam when closing. Usually enough for 1-2 years of work. It happens that it fails after six months, but rarely.

Main fault: toilet inlet valve

Inside the valve there is a rubber cuff into which a small mushroom-shaped valve fits. Over time, the cuff becomes rougher, the hole where this mushroom-shaped valve enters enlarges, and because of this, water leaks out, and it no longer flows through the filler tube, but through the rocker valve. Therefore, the collection of water into the tank occurs very slowly. This is the main problem with this toilet cistern inlet valve.

This disease can be “treated” very simply - in 5 - 10 minutes with the help of adhesive tape.

Watch the video we found on the Internet.

Tools for work

To fix the toilet, the best option would be to call a professional plumber. But if you prefer to carry out such work yourself, then you will need the following tools:

Toilet Repair Tools

  • Pliers;
  • Adjustable wrench;
  • There are two types of screwdrivers: flat and Phillips;
  • Various rubber gaskets;
  • Silicone sealant.

To fix most cistern problems, your toilet cistern valve will need to be repaired. Now let's directly understand the malfunctions that arise and see how we can eliminate them.

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